October 20, 1897.] 



Garden and Forest. 



415 



the fungus cannot penetrate the unbroken tissues of the bulb, 

 but gains an entrance through wounds, more especially broken 

 roots ; the amount of evidence forthcoming indicates that the 

 bulbs are not diseased until after they are removed from the 

 ground ; the spores of R. necans are killed by a short immer- 

 sion in a one per cent solution of corrosive sublimate or of 

 salicylic acid. Neither of these substances have any injurious 

 effect on living bulbs, provided they do not remain in the 

 liquid for more than fifteen minutes. 



The fungus is by no means confined to Lily-bulbs for its 

 food ; but, as experiments have proved, can live on a great 

 variety of dead or decomposing substances ; it may also occur 

 as a parasite on other plants than Lilies in Japan, as it readily 

 attacks and destroys Daffodil-bulbs. Judging from the enor- 

 mous amount of injury caused, it would appear that the fields 

 where the Lilies are grown must be saturated with the fungus, 

 growing indiscriminately on various substances, and attacking 

 the Lily-bulbs, along with other things, as a matter of course. 

 If practicable, entirely new localities should be selected for 

 the work. Even if this were done, great care would have to 

 be exercised, so as not to introduce the fungus ; the spores are 

 readily conveyed from one locality to another in the soil on 

 tools, cart-wheels, shoes, clothing, etc., in addition to being 

 carried by wind or animals. An important point to remember 

 is not to allow vegetable rubbish of any kind to accumulate, 

 and all diseased bulbs should be burned and not allowed to 

 remain on the ground, otherwise the zygospores that form on 

 such old decaying bulbs would start the disease the following 

 season. As little injury as possible should be done to the 

 roots of the bulbs when they are removed from the ground, 

 and the bulbs should be allowed to "sweat" before they are 

 packed for exportation. If the fungus is known to be present 

 when the bulbs are being prepared for packing, they might be 

 placed in a solution of salicylic acid as advised. The sterilized 

 earth in which the bulbs are packed appears very suitable for 

 the work, and cannot be in any way considered as a cause of 

 the disease. 



Work of the Season. 



SPRING-FLOWERING bulbs have all been received, and 

 should mostly be at once planted. Long exposure to the 

 air is injurious to all bulbs. Those intended for outdoor 

 planting usually have to await the removal of tender bedding 

 plants from the ground. In the preparation of the beds for 

 bulbs it should be remembered that the soil has been more or 

 less exhausted by summer bedding plants, and therefore deep 

 digging and an application of thoroughly-rotted stable-manure 

 are necessary. I have tried prepared fertilizers in Tulip-beds, 

 but these have not proved better than stable-manure. The 

 latter is really preferable in a stiff soil, and makes it more open 

 and friable. The advantages of winter mulching for Tulips 

 and Hyacinths have been questioned of late years, and in the 

 latitude of Philadelphia it does not seem to be necessary if the 

 bulbs are planted at the proper depth, so as to prevent their 

 being heaved out by frost. Tulips intended to be forced for 

 cutting can be handled most conveniently by the method used 

 by florists ; that is, by planting about fifty bulbs of one variety 

 in a fiat or shallow box, giving them a thorough watering and 

 storing the boxes in a cold frame ; here they are covered with 

 earth to a depth of about four inches, and remain until needed 

 for forcing. 



For conservatory or house decoration several bulbs of 

 Hyacinths or Tulips planted in an eight or ten inch pan are 

 effective, and the same plan answers for Freesias, Daffodils 

 and Lilies-of-the-valley. Flats of Lily-of-the-valley, for cut 

 flowers, may be treated in much the same way as that noted 

 for Tulips, except that the Lilies should not be covered to a 

 greater depth than two inches. This is sufficient to prevent 

 them from drying out, and allows the frost to penetrate readily 

 to the pips. It is also much easier to remove the cover- 

 ing of earth from the boxes in frosty weather it a thin layer 

 of long litter is shaken over the pips before covering them 

 with earth, and there is less danger of snapping off the pips in 

 the process of uncovering. The trimming of the roots of 

 Lily-of-the-valley at the time of planting in either pots or boxes 

 is another point observed by many successful growers. This 

 permits the pips to absorb moisture more readily, and abun- 

 dant water is necessary to the successful forcing of these 

 plants. 



In the forcing of Freesias and Roman Hyacinths, both 

 admirable in the conservatory, root-growth is needed first, 

 and, therefore, but little heat should be allowed these plants 

 in the early stages of growth. The same rule applies to the 

 ordinary Dutch Hyacinths. 



Lilium longiflorum and L. Harrisii, which are now well 

 started, should be brought in from the frame before hard frost 

 comes. Moderation in watering is a good rule for these plants 

 during the early part of the season especially. But little syring- 

 ing is needed ; the only insect likely to trouble them at this 

 time is the green aphis, and this is readily disposed of with 

 applications of tobacco-water or tobacco-dust. The large 

 clumps of these Lilies, so much used in Easter decorations, 

 usually comprise several plants started in small pots and after- 

 ward placed together in a large pot. This method permits the 

 selection of plants that are all in the same condition of growth, 

 and ensures a more even crop of flowers than would be possi- 

 ble if the bulbs were started together in a large pot. 



Most of the Caladiums have finished their growth for this 

 season and will be going to rest ; while these shall not 

 require much attention from this time on until spring, a 

 watering as often as once a week or ten days will help to pre- 

 vent dry rot if the pots are stored beneath a dry stage in the 

 greenhouse. 



Richardias and hybrid Amaryllis are also among the valued 

 bulbs for winter and spring flowering, and having been prop- 

 erly rested may be started moderately now. Amaryllis enjoy a 

 temperature of from sixty-five to seventy degrees ; this is 

 higher than is needed for Richardias, while both appreciate 

 rich soil and abundant watering. 



Holmesburg, Pa. IV. H. Taplin. 



The Hardy Plant Border in October. 



T I 



'HE borders may still be kept bright with a good selection 

 of hardy perennials. The best and showiest plant now 

 bearing blue flowers is Salvia azurea grandiflora. This Sage 

 grows luxuriantly in a warm sunny spot in light soil. A thick 

 layer of dry leaves is sufficient protection here. Sedum Sie- 

 boldii is still flowering freely. Although this pleasing plant 

 thrives on the front row of the herbaceous border, its choice 

 of position is a dry sunny place in the rock garden ; here its 

 stems droop gracefully over the rocks, and its pinkish flowers, 

 which are produced in much-branched umbellate cymes and 

 last in good condition for several weeks, are seen to better 

 advantage. 



The neat perennial Eupatorium ccelestinum, or Mist-flower, 

 carries compact cymes of blue flowers at this time. The 

 native Dittany, Cunila Mariana, is a neat much-branched plant 

 with small purple flowers produced in corymbed cymes. It is 

 attractive now in the front row of the herbaceous border, and 

 is perfectly hardy here. 



One of the neatest and showiest of the native Asters for use 

 in the border is A. turbinellus. It is of easy cultivation and 

 increases rapidly. Large plants may be placed about six yards 

 apart in the back row of the herbaceous border, and their 

 large bright blue flowers make a fine display at this time. 

 Another distinct and showy species is A. sericeus. The slen- 

 der stems of the plants, which are two feet in height, are 

 thickly clothed with pubescent leaves of a silky white color. 

 The flower-heads are large and the ray-flowers are of a deep 

 violet color. 



Solidago rigida is a good companion for these' Asters, and 

 takes kindly to cultivation. Another graceful and showy 

 species of Golden-rod for the border in late autumn is Soli- 

 dago Drummondii. This western species grows luxuriantly 

 here ; its drooping stems are from three to four feet long. 



The white Japan Anemone, Anemone Japonica alba or Hon- 

 orine Jobert, is a handsome hardy perennial when in flower. 

 The plants are unusually floriferous this season and have healthy 

 foliage. They are grown in a slightly shady position and some- 

 what moist soil. A liberal top-dressing of well-rotted cow- 

 manure was applied to them last autumn. The white flowers 

 of this plant are among the best we have for cutting at this time. 



Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, better known in gardens as 

 Plumbago Larpentas, is still producing an abundance of its 

 violet flowers and helps to brighten the border. Callirrhoe in- 

 volucrata and C. verticellata, prostrate hardy perennials which 

 belong to the Mallow family, have large violet-crimson flowers 

 which are now plentiful. Cedronella cana, a labiate from New 

 Mexico, of neat, erect habit, is now bearing its showy, purplish 

 flowers. A few other desirable plants now flowering in the 

 border areChrysopsis villosa ; the pink-blossomed Eupatorium 

 purpureum; Polygonum Virginianum ; the near relative of 

 Helianthus, Actinomeris squarrosa, known also as Coreopsis 

 alternifolia ; the purple-flowered Boltonia asteroides ; Clematis 

 Lavallcei and C. Savatieri ; Colchicums, Gaillardias, Potentilla 

 recta. Geranium Wallichianum, Hieracium umbellatum, Aster 

 Shortii, A. laevis, A. Novse-Anglias rubra and A. amethystinus. 



Harvard Botanic Garden. Robert Cameron. 



