136 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 319. 



thorns, some Roses, Dogwoods or Cornels, Tupelos, Vibur- 

 nums, Styrax, Halesia or Silver-bell, Hornbeam, Hop-horn- 

 beam and the Winterberries (species of Ilex) and Hollies. 

 Some of the Holly-seed may not germinate until even the third 

 year after it has been in the ground, so that the seed-bed 

 should not be too hastily destroyed. 



In planting any seed it is generally safer to commit the error 

 of covering with too little soil than with too much. Light seeds 

 are often covered so deeply that the little plantlet cannot reach 

 the surface, and it would have been even better to have sown 

 the seed on top of the ground. In most cases the chief 

 advantage of deep covering lies in the fact that the seeds are 

 likely to obtain more equable moisture, but the surface of no 

 seed-bed -should be allowed to become really dry, because if 

 the seeds have started into growth and dryness overtakes the 

 young plantlet before it has formed and sent down good root- 

 lets, it is only too likely to dry and shrivel beyond recovery. 



Arnold Arboretum. J- G. Jack. 



Work in the Flower-garden. 



PROTECTIVE coverings for flower-beds have not been of 

 so much value during the past winter as in some seasons, 

 owing to the heavy coat of snow that has remained on the 

 ground all winter. The ground did not freeze at all in many 

 places, and the growth of all bulbous plants will consequently 

 be well advanced. To-day I examined some Lilies in the 

 Rhododendron bed, upon which a mass of leaves had been 

 placed, and growth above ground had already begun, so that 

 great care was necessary in removing the litter. The same is 

 also true of the Narcissus bed ; formerly a covering for these 

 plants was not thought needful, but some of the Spanish Daf- 

 fodils do not come up strong after a hard winter, and we now 

 cover the whole bed in the fall after the ground has frozen a 

 little. 



In this section but few plants have yet begun to move in the 

 borders, but as soon as they do, any transplanting that needs 

 attention should be done without delay. It is best to wait until 

 plants start to grow before disturbing them, as they then start 

 off more freely after the shift. Herbaceous plants raised under 

 glass must be carefully hardened off before setting them out, 

 tor indoor treatment makes them tender. 



In the cultivation of Hollyhocks, we find it best to raise a 

 new lot each year and to set them out in their permanent places 

 in spring in well-prepared soil. There is thus a chance to pro- 

 tect them in the fall ; no loss is sustained from winter-killing, 

 and there is little cheek from spring transplanting. After 

 Hollyhocks flower once, they are easy victims to severe cold 

 alternated with thaws, and they are not to be relied upon the 

 second year. The sowing for the following year's display 

 should be made in the latter part of July. The same treatment 

 applies to Canterbury-bells and Pansies ; these are now being 

 transplanted to the open borders where they are to flower, and 

 between each, later on, will be planted annuals, such as Zin- 

 nias, Asters, or Stocks. 



The larger portion of our Japan Anemones are grown in 

 pots for the greater security of the bloom in fall. These 

 are stored away in a cool cellar, and they often freeze during 

 the winter; this does them no harm, but checks very early 

 growth in spring. They are all starting now, and will soon be 

 taken outdoors where a little protection can be given them on 

 cold nights. Tritomas (Knipholias) are treated in the same 

 way ; this early start assures an early blooming season and 

 escape from premature fall frosts. 



Sweet Peas can never be sown too early, though the mistake 

 is often made of sowing them too late. They should be put 

 into the ground at once. It is often difficult to carry Sweet 

 Peas through the hot season, as they are very susceptible to 

 drought. This was our trouble last year, and in trying to avoid 

 a repetition we have dug a deep trench, and after taking out 

 the sandy subsoil, replaced it with clay and filled in with good 

 manure mixed through the better top soil. With occasional 

 watering, we hope in this way to overcome the effect of the 

 hot weather. Great advances have been made of late years in 

 the quality of Sweet Peas ; the difficulty now is to know which 

 kinds to choose out of so many. We never depend on novel- 

 ties, but always take well-known kinds of desired colors, when 

 results may be counted upon. 



An old but fine bedding-plant, too seldom seen, is Perilla 

 Nankinensis. The rich dark foliage makes a fine background 

 for a wide border, and the color keeps good throughout the 

 season. A packet of seed will provide a large number of 

 plants, and it is as easy to raise as most annuals. The foliage 

 is a rich dark purple, and it is beautifully laciniated. 



Roses have wintered better this year than I have ever known 

 them to do ; few gaps need filling, and even such kinds as La 

 France and Duchess of Albany are in good vigor without 

 any protection whatever, though their lack of protection was 

 an oversight last fall. Spring is the best time for making new 

 Rose-beds. Experiences in fall planting, even of American- 

 grown Roses, have only served to emphasize this fact. Where 

 large beds of hardy Roses are grown in the flower-garden it is 

 always best to keep a few in the reserve border to supply any 

 losses; these should all be lifted and replanted every spring, 

 so as to keep their roots from spreading too much. Frequent 

 transplanting will keep a Rose in fit condition to move for 

 years, and this is especially true where they are wanted in fall 

 for winter forcing in pots or boxes. Outdoor Rose-culture is 

 rather discouraging at times ; rose-bugs seem to get the upper 

 hand each year, no mater what is tried by way of prevention, 

 and I am satisfied there is no cure ; nothing seems to avail ex- 

 cept hand-picking. 



Cannas take a prominent part in all outdoor flower-garden- 

 ing, and their full value is only beginning to be recognized. 

 The newer kinds that have appeared in the last year or two 

 will give a great stimulus to their use ; such sorts as Star of 

 1891, Madame Crozy, Alphonse Bouvier, Florence Vaughan, 

 Captain Suzzoni, Charles Henderson, J. D. Cabos, Paul Bruant 

 and others have rapidly made names for themselves, espe- 

 cially at the World's Fair last summer, where they made one 

 of the principal horticultural features. Roots ought to be 

 started now, ready for planting out in June ; the best results 

 are obtained when the roots are well established in six-inch 

 pots before planting-time. There is then no delay after plant- 

 ing, and they quickly furnish the space they are to fill. Cannas 

 also make ideal subjects for planting in tubs or boxes for sum- 

 mer use near the house. For this purpose only the dwarf 

 large-flowered kinds should be used, taking care to have rich 

 soil and to feed them liberally as the season advances, for 

 they are strong feeders. 



South Lancaster, Mass. E. O. Orfiet. 



Summer-flowering Carnations. 



ALTHOUGH the border varieties of Carnations which do so 

 well in Europe, prove disappointing here as a rule, there 

 are a few American-grown kinds of the perpetual-flowering 

 section which bloom successfully out-of-doors with us in the 

 summer months. While the Marguerite, Grenadin and some 

 other varieties bloom from seed sown in spring, and usually 

 come double, they do not produce as large nor as fragrant 

 flowers as may be obtained from a small assortment of early 

 propagated greenhouse varieties. 



To produce strong plants fit to set out early in May the 

 proper time to put in cuttings is in December and January. 

 When well rooted, pot off into small pots, and transfer from 

 these again to three-inch pots about the end of March. The 

 plants should be grown along in a cool house, and early in April 

 may be placed in a cold frame. Here we plant outdoors about 

 May 15th in rows one and a half feet apart, allowing the plants 

 one foot in the rows. No topping should be done after the end 

 of May if early flowers are desired. When the bloom-spikes 

 are well advanced they must be staked, and it is well to look 

 over the plants once a fortnight and tie up shoots requiring it. 

 A mulching of fine well-rotted manure, and occasional water- 

 ings in dry weather, is beneficial. We generally have flowers 

 early in July, and from then until the end of October, or until 

 a sharp frost. Plants which had bloomed all summer were 

 last fall lifted in full bloom and planted in the Carnation-house 

 along with those specially grown for winter blooming, and 

 these have flowered fully as well as any of the others. 



Last season we tried Lizzie McGowan and Mrs. Fisher for 

 white flowers ; the latter- proved to be the finest variety in the 

 whole section. Lizzie McGowan bloomed a little, but not 

 enough to warrant its use again. Among scarlets, Hector 

 easily took the lead ; Florence, a less brilliant-colored kind, 

 flowered fairly well, but Portia was useless. Golden Triumph 

 and Louise Porsch gave an occasional bloom, but did not pay 

 for the ground occupied, and both rusted so badly that we 

 have discarded them. Grace Wilder was the only pink va- 

 riety giving any'bloom, and as it also is affected by rust we 

 will not give it a further trial. Last summer we noticed a very 

 fine bed of Nobscot, a scarlet seedling of Mr. Nicholson's in- 

 troduction, at Framingham. The plants were a mass of 

 bloom all summer; the flowers are smaller than those of 

 Hector, borne on stiff stems, and do not burst the calyx. This 

 variety is a decided acquisition, and we purpose growing it 

 next summer. Possibly the new pink Carnation, Ada' Byron, 

 may prove a good summer bloomer, as it possesses many of 



