146 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 320. 



stand firmly erect, it should be well staked ; for otherwise all 

 the branches may take on a "set," which would require much 

 careful work to remedy. 



When a rather slow-growing variety has been worked on a 

 vigorous root there is usually more or less tendency shown on 

 the part of the young tree to send up suckers. All such cases 

 ought to be treated thoroughly, by removing the earth about 

 the tree so as to expose the point of origin of every sucker. 

 Remove each one with a sharp knife, going deeply enough so 

 that there will be no more sprouting from those points; it is well 

 at the same time to notice wherever any little white points are 

 forming upon the stock, indicative of further sprouting, and 

 to devitalize them by a slight cutting. If this is not done 

 thoroughly from the start the evil will rapidly increase, to the 

 great detriment of the orchard. This is in some degree pre- 

 vented by such deep planting as will allow every young tree 

 to root freely from the cion. 



Newport, Vt. T. H. HoskillS. 



The Hardy Flower-garden. 



/"•HIONODOXAS are still in flower, though the earliest 

 ^-' blooms are past. C. Alleni, in its second year, is proving 

 a gain. It is quite the largest-flowering variety of the family, 

 exceeding even C. grandiflorum, than which it also seems 

 more free-flowering. The slaty blue color of C. Alleni is not 

 unlike that of C. grandiflorum, perhaps a trifle brighter. These 

 Chionodoxas have often a tendency to show a large eye at the 

 base of the petals. I grew a pan of C. Alleni in a cool-house 

 last year and these all showed this tendency very markedly, the 

 color being refined to a nearly pure white at the base of the 

 petals, while the blue of the upper part of the petal was purer 

 in tone than in those grown in the open. I thought at the time, 

 making allowance for lighter color underglass, that the variety 

 would prove a large white-eyed C.Sardensis, but was mistaken. 

 C. Alleni has the same dark-colored line down the centre of 

 the petal which distinguishes C. grandiflorum. It is evidently 

 the fate of these two varieties to be mingled in gardens. C. 

 Tmolusi will probably also join C. Lucilia;, where effects and 

 not differences are valued. The former variety with me is of 

 more intense blue than C. Lucilias, and has a smaller white eye. 

 The petals are also not so much reflexed. Mr. Whittall sent 

 out a " C. Sardensis with dark eye " this year. It is a beauti- 

 ful flower, richly colored and, perhaps, earlier than the type, 

 though this is not certain. I am unable, however, to see any 

 change from the normal type in the eye, which, in both cases, 

 is a mere cluster of white stamens, the petals being entirely 

 dark blue. Red and white forms of Chionodoxas continue 

 very rare. We have, thanks to Mr. Whittall, this year, the first 

 red forms of C. grandiflorum, but the bulbs are not yet strong. 

 Red or pink forms of C. Lucilise are very pretty, but the pure 

 white kinds are the choicest of the family. Still, if one does 

 not care for rare flowers he may well be content with the orig- 

 inal Glory of the Snow, for C. Luciliee is one of the brightest 

 and most distinct of garden-flowers at this season, and well 

 planted will wax strong and increase in numbers and conse- 

 quent beauty each succeeding year. 



There may be a calendar of Daffodil flowering, but it seems 

 to vary much from season to season. This year Bicolors and 

 Henry Irving were easily first, followed by Tenby, Scoticus, 

 Ard Righ, Nanus, Countess of Annesley, Golden Spur, Sir 

 Watkin and King Umberto. As the latter is a selection from 

 the first variety, this list is an instance of the folly of trying to 

 make out the rotation of varieties which flower at about the 

 same time. Like all bulbs in the open, their flowering time is 

 modified by circumstances, such as soil, exposure and depth 

 of planting, and either of these may vary but slightly to pro- 

 duce very marked variations. 

 Elizabeth, N. J. J. N. Gerard. 



Sub-irrigation in Greenhouse and Garden. 



JUST at present the new method of watering greenhouse- 

 beds by means of pipes or lines of tile laid on the bottom 

 of water-tight benches, is a much-discussed and interesting 

 subject. While experiments in this line have only just begun, 

 and the solution of most of these irrigation problems is yet 

 a task for the future, we can already see that the innovation 

 for greenhouse operations is one of practical value. As in 

 almost all such cases, however, the first claims of its inven- 

 tors, or advocates, will need modification. One of my benches 

 has been arranged forsubirrigation by means of a five-quarter- 

 inch gas-pipe laid on the ordinary plank bottom in the manner 

 shown in accompanyingsketches (see figures on this page). The 

 two parallel pipe lines are two feet apart. Quarter-inch holes are 

 drilled through the pipe four or five inches apart, alternately 



on opposite sides. The further end is closed, although not 

 perfectly tight ; the other end is turned up and receives the 

 water through a funnel, or directly from the hose. The bench 

 bottom is not absolutely water-tight, being made of ordinary 

 matched two-inch pine-plank. Neither lead, cement, nor paint 

 has been used. This has saved work, time and expense, and 

 the arrangement seems to work well. 



I find the following advantages in the new method of water- 

 application : (1) Ease of application ; (2) certainty of thorough- 

 ness in watering; (3) exemption of plants from disease. Over- 

 head watering in amateur houses, when it has to be done by 



Fig. 27. — Plan of Bench arranged for Subirrigation. 



means of the ordinary garden-sprinkler, is a tedious task. In 

 the new arrangement we simply pour a few bucketfuls of water 

 into the funnel and the work is not only done, but done well. 

 This method of application also enables us to use washing 

 suds, manure-water and similar liquids which we would not 

 like to put on the plants from overhead, either from consid- 

 erations of cleanliness or for fear of clogging the sprinkler. 



Watering beds with the sprinkler is rarely done thoroughly. 

 A bucketful of water sprinkled on in the usual fashion will 

 make a good-sized bed appear soaked, while, in fact, the ap- 

 plication may not have reached beyond an inch deep, leaving 

 the lower portions dust-dry. Such, indeed, is not an uncom- 

 mon condition of many benches and flats in the glass-houses 

 of amateurs. Subirrigation gives us reversed conditions. On 

 a bench, which one bucketful of water applied by surface- 

 sprinkling would render apparently quite wet, you may turn 

 two or three bucketfuls through underground pipes, without 

 bringing moisture enough for a respectable show to the sur- 

 face. The consequence is that almost every one, without 

 exception, would apply a greater quantity of water by subirri- 

 gation than by the old overhead sprinkling method. Herein, 

 I believe, is the chief and, perhaps, the only reason for the 

 greatly increased growth of certain crops observed at the Ohio 

 Station, as the result of subirrigation. It is only an experience 

 similar to the one made in the application of fertilizing sub- 

 stances on Potatoes and other crops. Quantity of application 

 is the deciding factor rather than the mode of application. 

 Lettuce and Onions are especially subject to this influence. 

 On an ordinary bench, and in nicely prepared, porous soil, I 

 can produce almost double the growth of these vegetables in 

 a given time by doubling the ordinary overhead applications 

 of water. It is surprising what large quantities of water Let- 

 tuce wijl take and delight in. Amateurs seldom give it enough 

 for best effect. With a subirrigation arrangement this will be 

 different. The application does not quickly show on the sur- 

 face and consequently it is naturally more abundant than under 

 the old method. The roots of the plants are kept well sup- 

 plied with moisture all the time, and the growth, therefore, is 

 rapid and healthy. 



Herein, possibly, may also be found an answer to the ques- 

 tion why the Tomatoes at the Ohio Station did not show as 



Fig. 28. — Cross-section of Bench. Fig. 29. — Subirrigating Pipe, in perspective. 



much difference in favor of subirrigation as the Lettuce did. 

 Tomatoes do not need the large amount of moisture required 

 for rapid growth in Lettuce. 



When water is frequently applied by sprinkling on heading 

 Lettuces, rot is liable to attack the central portions of plants, and 

 the lower leaves, resting on the continuously moist surface, 

 will also decay by wet rot. Subirrigation prevents all these 

 troubles. Possibly there may be advantages of the new 

 method not yet mentioned ; the future will tell us more about 

 the subject. 



Subirrigation in the garden is of no less practical importance. 

 I think it is feasible, at least, on a small scale. What is to 

 prevent the home-gardener from arranging a little plot on 

 the same principle as the greenhouse bench ? Of course, in 



