316 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 337. 



European Gooseberry should bring out some interesting re- 

 sults. 



There are other species of native Gooseberry, such as Ribes 

 rotundifolium and R. Lobbii, of the Pacific slope, which will yet 

 prove of economic value, if, indeed, their usefulness has not 

 already been locally demonstrated ; for, although the fruits 

 may be smaller than those of R. Cynosbati, they are often 

 very appreciably larger than the berries of R. oxyacanthoides. 



Arnold Arboretum. J- G. Jack, 



Crops in an Orchard. 



IT seems a long time to wait for the fruit of a young orchard, 

 especially an Apple-orchard ; and with many it is impor- 

 tant to utilize the land for other crops, while the orchard is 

 growing. An experience of upward of forty years in plant- 

 ing orchards and managing them, does not, indeed, qualify 

 the writer to utter the last word on such a subject ; and, in 

 fact, location must have much to do with it. All my expe- 

 rience in this business has been gained where a good mar- 

 ket was within short driving distance. Consequently, I have 

 planted in my orchards mainly the smaller fruits which come 

 into bearing quickly and furnish an income with but little 

 waiting. Young fruit-trees of the same or other species with 

 the orchard may be safely grown between the permanent rows ; 

 while between the trees in the rows there is an excellent op- 

 portunity to plant such small fruits as Currants and Gooseber- 

 ries. These may profitably remain until the trees come to 

 full bearing, or at least for ten years. I have also grown Rhu- 

 barb and Asparagus in young orchards, between the rows, for 

 as long a time, without any injury to the orchard. 



After growing one or two nurseries of trees between the 

 rows, 1 have found no crop so satisfactory as Beans. These 

 seem to do even better in partial shade than in the full sun- 

 light. I am still growing Beans in an orchard fifteen to twenty 

 years planted, getting'full crops, which pay for their own 

 manuring, and leave a good deal for the trees. There is no 

 better mulch for young fruit-trees than bean straw, in which 

 I have never known mice to harbor, and which in its decay 

 furnishes an effective fertilizer. 



Strawberries do fairly well in a young orchard for six or 

 seven years ; but the beds of these must be narrowed as the 

 branches and roots of the trees extend themselves ; and, in 

 fact, four years are about as long as 1 should want to continue 

 them. 



Corn is a good crop in a young orchard, as it does not attain 

 much growth until most of the tree-growth is made. It is bet- 

 ter to plant Sweet Corn, the ears of which are to be sold green, 

 and the stalks then cut for green feeding to cows. 



Potatoes are an injurious crop in an orchard, as the growth 

 is simultaneous with thatof the trees. There are a numberof 

 garden-vegetables which do well for several years. I have 

 many times grown good crops of carrots in an orchard, even 

 after the trees had acquired considerable size, the short- 

 rooted sorts being preferred. 



All of this, of course, presupposes liberal fertilization, which 

 in my practice is alternately with stable-manure and with fer- 

 tilizers. With stable-manure Corn has appeared to me to be 

 the best crop, the unconsumed manure, with the Corn-roots 

 and stubble, being very acceptable nourishment to the young 

 trees. A fall crop of flat turnips can often be taken success- 

 fully from a young orchard without harm. 



All this must be understood as done under pretty high cul- 

 ture, with free use of manures. Nothing to check the growth 

 of the trees is allowed, as that is the main objective point. But 

 it is astonishing to an inexperienced observer how much of 

 useful and profitable growth can be taken in this way from a 

 young orchard, and the practice especially aids the grower to 

 accord to the orchard that feeding and cultivation which it 

 needs, and which is often necessarily grudged and withheld 

 when no immediate return is hoped for. The suggestion 

 came naturally to me at first from seeing how well fruit-trees 

 do when planted in well-kept gardens, and it is, in fact, only 

 an extension of that practice. , I have never seen any injury 

 result from it, and might easily cite other advantages. 



Newport, vt. T. H. Hoskins. 



Chrysanthemums. 



UNDER a thorough system of stopping their shoots, speci- 

 men plants should now assume a neat regular outline. 

 Additional supports should be added and some tying done to 

 get them still further into shape. There should be a proper 

 distribution of the shoots, and, if necessary, stunted growth 

 should be cut out, so as to admit light and air freely all through 



the plants. Well-preserved foliage is of scarcely less impor- 

 tance than fine blooms. With the exception of some late 

 kinds, such as C. B. Whitnal, White Cap, Mrs. H. J. Jones and 

 a few rather straggling growers which need to have runaway 

 shoots stopped later, all should now be allowed to grow. 

 They should be syringed freely on all bright days. This tends 

 to keep down insects and promotes the growth of clean 

 healthy foliage. 



The application of stimulants is a work requiring very great 

 care, and only experienced persons should be entrusted with 

 it. The pots must be filled with healthy roots, and the drain- 

 age free, to begin with. No excess of solid matter ought to lie 

 on the soil, to prevent the free passage of water. If cow- 

 manure be used as a top-dressing: it should be first dried and 

 then broken into small pieces. This acts as a mulch and fer- 

 tilizer as well. As a safe and lasting fertilizer, applied as a 

 top-dressing, we prefer pulverized sheep-manure, with just a 

 dash of sand and loam to keep it open. Liquid-manure may 

 be applied also if the plants continue healthy. It should be 

 given often, say, once a week at first, and two or three times a 

 week later on, but never at any time very strong. Drainage 

 from stables is one of the best fertilizers known, as it contains 

 nearly all the ingredients of a complete plant-food in a con- 

 centrated form. I seldom use it stronger than one part in 

 twenty of water. If bituminous soot can be obtained it is 

 beneficial, and may be used with some device for filtering 

 water through it. Droppings from the hen-house are dan- 

 gerous when used in any quantity in this way. Where lime is 

 not an ingredient of the soil, a pound or two once in a while 

 will do good work. Sulphate of ammonia is sometimes used 

 with wonderful results, but unless its strength be known it is 

 not quite safe. Among commercial fertilizers guano ranks 

 high. It does not, however, contain all the elements required, 

 and so gives better results when used alternately with other 

 manures. Guano is best applied in the liquid form, and while 

 it may be safe to use more than one pound to fifty gallons of 

 water, I confine myself to this limit. When applying commer- 

 cial fertilizers occasional plants will not be able to stand the 

 regular dose, which will be shown by the leaves turning pale 

 green ; these should be passed until they resume their natural 

 color, and always after that a smaller quantity should be given. 

 At the same time, when clear water only is used, they should 

 have no more than enough to keep them from wilting, for a 

 few days. This gives the soil a chance to sweeten. 



Plants for specimen blooms ought to be making strong 

 growth, and they, too, will need a little extra plant-food. The 

 mixture recommended for specimen plants will be found the 

 best for them. All side-shoots should be carefully taken off, 

 and crown-buds which are too early taken out, and one or two 

 shoots, as may be required, allowed to grow. Charles Davis, 

 good only on a crown, may be taken any time, as may also 

 Lady Playfair, Mrs. E. G. Hill, Mabel Simpkins, Mayflower, 

 Yellow Queen. Domination, Ivory, Cullingfordii, G. W. 

 Childs and Viviand Morel are best on terminals, and crowns 

 appearing now on these should be removed. 



Wellesley, Mass. T. D. Hatfield. 



Hardy Plants which Flower in late July. 



LILIU M NEPALENSE, a species from the central Himalayas, 

 has flowered here in the open ground from a bulb planted 

 in May. I have seldom seen a more healthy plant, and though 

 it is said to be a greenhouse species, I shall leave it in the 

 ground during winter, well protected from frost. It attains a 

 height of about two feet, bearing one to several white flowers, 

 purple inside toward the base. The flowers are about five 

 inches long and nodding. 



Lilium superbum, var. Carolinianum, is a distinct form which 

 flowers about midway between the seasons of L. Canadense 

 and the true L. superbum. It is more dwarf in size, and its 

 petals are more reflexed, being turned back about as much as 

 those of L. Columbianum when fully matured. It is perfectly 

 hardy and thrives in situations adapted to L. Canadense. 



Campanula Carpatica alba is a very prolific bloomer and 

 bears its charming white flowers, a little more than an inch 

 wide, on stems of fairly good length for cutting. C. Rasneri, 

 about the same size, blooms with it, but its flowers are blue 

 and a little smaller. 



Platycodon grandirlorum and P. Mariesii are two desirable 

 plants, with large deep purple-blue bell-shaped flowers, quite 

 hardy and easy to grow. The variety Album, of P. grandirlo- 

 rum, is very desirable. 



Aster Douglasii, from northern California, is much earlier 

 than most of our native Asters. It produces flowers in the 

 greatest profusion, which are nearly white and about three- 



