December ig, 1894.] 



Garden and Forest. 



507 



Mauve Queen is the one to choose. T ts flower differs from 

 the typical form by its much larger size and better substance, 

 yet it ought not to crowd A. longiflora out altogether, for its 

 blossoms are by no means as freely produced. A. Jaureguiae 

 of the Flore des Serves, pi. 536, is simply a white variety of 

 A. longiflora ; it and its varieties are hardly as vigorous as the 

 blue or purple kinds, but all are very handsome. A. Jaureguiag 

 or A. longiflora alba (the same catalogue frequently offers it 

 under both names) would be a very desirable plant were it 

 not for A. alba maxima, which is much larger and finer. Its 

 whiteness is perfect, except for a tinge of lemon at one side of 

 the opening in the centre and a touch of purple at the other ; 

 this is a kind to be chosen. William Muller and Edw. Boissier 

 are so much like it that they may well be disregarded, but Mar- 

 garita is quite distinct, as it lacks the purple mark. This is the 

 whitest of all Achimenes. Dr. Hopf is also a white longiflora 

 which, perhaps, is not needed. A. longiflora rosea is like the 

 type, except in color, which is, as the name denotes. Adele 

 de la Haute is also a rosy longiflora, but lighter in tint and de- 

 sirable. Ambroise Verschaffelt is described by Van Houtte 

 as being " white, reticulated with light pansy," which means 

 that the white ground is covered with a network of violet 

 lines. There is also a conspicuous violet blotch at one side 

 of the orifice. This is a very striking and beautiful variety 

 which ought to be in every collection. Diamond and Pulcher- 

 rima do not differ from it in the slightest degree; whoever 

 has one of them has all three. This completes the varieties 

 of A. longiflora kinds as far as my experience goes. There 

 are many other species and hybrids which I will describe in 

 another paper. 



Canton, Mass. " • -£• h-lldicott. 



Greenhouse Work. 



WE are now passing through the dullest part of the whole 

 year, at least plants seem to improve less between the 

 time of Chrysanthemums and the new year than at any other 

 period. But this will soon be changed, for once in the new 

 year the days soon lengthen, the sun gains power and work 

 comes on apace. No work that can be done at this time 

 should be neglected, for any headway made now is all clear gain 

 when the busy season comes. All pots that have been used 

 should be washed and stored away, each size separate. This 

 seems hardly worth the telling, but we so often see a heap of 

 dirty pots piled away, all sizes together, and most likely a fourth 

 of them cracked or broken when they are wanted. We also 

 make a practice at thisseason to get from the woods straight 

 twigs for flower-stakes next summer. Cut and pointed at this 

 time these are more durable than they would be if cut with the 

 sap in them. After all, there is no plant-stake so inconspicu- 

 ous as a young sapling, and the smallest twigs should be saved 

 for staking Achimenes and other slender-growing plants. 

 Such stakes as these are not of much value after one season's 

 use and may be thrown away. 



All bulbs that are stored away for the winter should be ex- 

 amined now. Begonias, Gloxinias and Amaryllis do not like 

 a temperature lower than fifty degrees. We have had serious 

 losses some years from too low a temperature, and on the 

 other hand a relatively high temperature is harmful, because a 

 proper season of rest is not allowed. Caladiums need a hot, 

 dry place, and do well stored in a warm boiler cellar ; if shaken 

 out of the pots and put in dry sand, space is economized, and 

 the pots can, meanwhile, be cleaned. Achimenes, too, can be 

 treated in this way, but should not be kept so warm. 



It seems early to begin propagating, but we always get in a 

 few Carnation cuttings in December for early fall flowers. 

 These are allowed to come in in the early part of October, or 

 as soon as the outdoor supply of flowers is cut off by frost, the 

 indoor Carnations not flowering until after the Chrysanthe- 

 mums are past. Frame-grown Carnations are very useful in 

 early autumn, but, to have them good, early propagation is 

 desirable. We like to get in the main stock of plants for next 

 winter bloom as near to the tenth of January as possible. The 

 cuttings root readily then ; they can be well hardened off after 

 being rooted in preparation for transferring to the frames. 



Small Ferns in most private gardens are a great help in all 

 sorts of decorative work, but there is always considerable 

 trouble experienced first in getting them, and afterward in 

 keeping them small enough for dinner-table work. Last year 

 we sowed a flat with spores of Adiantum cuneatum, and 

 raised over a thousand plants. Th"e spores were sown in 

 January from fronds taken off old plants and laid in paper to 

 dry ; the flat was filled with the soil worked out of the Fern- 

 roots used for Orchid potting ; the top was sifted very fine and 

 well watered, and the spores sown the next day. All this is 

 simple enough, but the trouble begins when the young plants 



are large enough to be transplanted into other flats ; however, 

 with care, the loss will be very small and the gain consider- 

 able. The varieties of Pteris are common enough as self- 

 sown plants, and it is only with the rare kinds that it is worth 

 while to take the time and trouble to raise plants from spores. 



If plenty of heat is at one's disposal it is better to get in cut- 

 tings of Crotons soon. They take some time to root, and will 

 make fine plants in a season if the cuttings are taken early in 

 the year and grown on rapidly. Crotons make fine decorative 

 plants for the house and stand well in such conditions. They 

 light up well and show most brilliant colors if grown with 

 plenty of light in the growing season. They are not of much 

 value in this state for outdoor decoration in summer, but far- 

 ther south they are super!) ; I have seen them especially rich 

 in color, in the city of Washington. 



Seeds should now be selected from well-berried and shapely 

 plants of Jerusalem Cherry, and sown the first week in January 

 to produce good plants of a serviceable size for next fall. We 

 have grown Benary's dwarf strain for several years, and these 

 plants are most serviceable af this time of year. They are all 

 thrownaway when their season is over, and the older plan of 

 cutting back and keeping over is superseded by sowing seed 

 early and planting out-of-doors in summer. 



Hybrid Roses that are wanted for early spring must now 

 be put in a cool house, where the temperature does not ex- 

 ceed fifty at night for a start. We have adopted the plan of 

 growing all in boxes now, and find this much the better way. 

 It the plants have been two years in the same soil they may be 

 taken out and planted in fresh material before starting them. 

 The change does not cause much check if the work is carefully 

 done, and if, as is most likely, the boxes are in an unsound 

 condition. We are using Cypress lumber now for all boxes 

 for use in the greenhouse. It is as cheap as good Pine and 

 lasts much longer. 



South Lancaster, Mass. E. 0. Orpet. 



Cyclamens. 



TO the lover of Cyclamens these plants are most interesting 

 now when they are coming into bloom, and especially so to 

 any grower who, in former seasons, has taken the trouble to 

 cross some of the varieties and to save their seeds. During recent 

 years the varieties have been greatly improved, but there is 

 still room for further advance, which means a more compact 

 habit of growth and larger, well-formed flowers, of distinct 

 and pleasing colors. In form of flower we aim to have long, 

 broad petals, smoothly cut and erect, so that the flower has a 

 compact and neat appearance. We often find it necessary to 

 cross with flowers of inferior shape for the sake of their bril- 

 liant colors, and in many cases it takes several years of careful 

 crossing before a really good form of flower is obtained. The 

 plants selected for crossing should be set apart from the others 

 and carefully labeled when they, are in bloom. When the 

 flowers are fully developed the pollen is easily shaken from 

 the stamens on to a piece of paper or glass, and can be trans- 

 ferred to the other flowers as desired, with a camel's-hair pen- 

 cil. The glass or paper must be carefully cleaned after each 

 operation, so that the varieties may not become mixed. 

 The seed plants must be carefully watered. An occa- 

 sional application of weak liquid-manure is required if they 

 are in any way pot-bound ; this is necessary to insure 

 sufficient nourishment for the plants and the proper develop- 

 ment of the seeds. The seeds need close watching when they 

 are ripening, as the capsules open when ripe and the seed is 

 apt to be dropped and lost. Perhaps the best time for sowing 

 the seed is during the month of October. It should be 

 sown in pans or shallow boxes, which must be well 

 drained. A mixture of leaf-mold and sand should be used, 

 and the seeds scattered evenly over the surface and cov- 

 ered lightly with sand. They should be sprinkled with water 

 through a fine rose and covered with glass. They should be 

 placed in a temperature of seventy-five degrees and kept 

 moist, but not soaked with water. When the seedlings have 

 formed two or three leaves they will be large enough to handle, 

 and should be transplanted into shallow boxes, about an inch 

 apart each way, and the same compost used as before. Some 

 sow the seed thinly in rows, and save transplanting by leaving 

 them in the seed-box until they are large enough to be placed 

 in pots. We find the change into fresh soil advantageous to 

 the growth of the young plants. When the bulbs are about as 

 large as peas they should be placed into thumb-pots, using the 

 same compost for the first potting, but for the successive put- 

 tings a little pulverized sheep-manure should beadded. About 

 three shifts will be required, the final one into six-inch pots. 

 During the winter and early spring months the plants should 

 be kept in a light, airy house with a night temperature of sixty 



