32 ROUGH TRAVELLING. [CHAP. XXII. 



number of negroes were standing on both banks, 

 chattering incessantly, and holding in their hands 

 large blazing torches of pine-wood, which threw a 

 red light on the trees around. The river was much 

 swollen, but we crossed without impediment. It 

 was the first stream we had come to of those flowing 

 into the Gulf of Mexico. 



Our coach was built on a plan almost universal in 

 America, and like those used in some parts of 

 France, with three seats, the middle one provided 

 with a broad leather strap, to lean back upon. The 

 best places are given to the ladies, and a husband is 

 seated next his wife. There are no outside pas 

 sengers, except occasionally one sitting by the 

 driver s side. We were often called upon, on a 

 sudden, to throw our weight first on the right, and 

 then on the left side, to balance the vehicle and 

 prevent an upset, when one wheel was sinking into a 

 deep rut. Sometimes all the gentlemen were or 

 dered to get out in the dark, and walk in the wet 

 and muddy road. The coachman would then whip 

 on his steeds over a fallen tree or deep pool, causing 

 tremendous jolts, so that my wife was thrown first 

 against the roof, and then against the sides of the 

 lightened vehicle, having almost reason to envy those 

 who were merely splashing through the mud. To 

 sleep was impossible, but at length, soon after day 

 break, we found ourselves entering the suburbs of 

 Columbus ; and the first sight we saw there was a 

 long line of negroes, men, women, and boys, well 

 dressed and very merry, talking and laughing, who 

 stopped to look at our coach. On inquiry, we were 



