Ch. v.] NIGHT ON TKE EIVEE. 77 



of which, having, somewhat to our surprise, leisurely ex- 

 amined us with a good double field-glass, made signs for us 

 to go over and chin-chin with them. We accordingly did 

 so, and, having partaken of their tea, offered them some of 

 our own provisions, with which they appeared much iu- 

 terested, particularly the white bread, though the loaf-sugar 

 seemed most generally appreciated. 



"We slept in the boat, the night being briUiantly fine, a 

 strong dew falling towards sunrise, and the stillness being 

 broken by the croaking of frogs, the chirping of cicadas, the 

 occasional leaping of a large fish in the stream, the passage 

 of boats up the river, and the distant creaking of a water- 

 wheel which appeared to be in action aU night long. A 

 strong tide was flowing ; but the water appeared perfectly 

 fresh to the taste, even at the flood. "We had agreed to keep 

 watch and watch during the night, and I most religiously 

 kept awake during the first hours, listening to these various 

 sounds. When, however, my turn had passed, and after a 

 short nap I awoke, I was not a little disgusted to find my 

 companion snoring instead of watching. But there did 

 not appear to be any real reason for the precaution. 



The following morning, after taking some photographic 

 views, capturing some of the beautiful butterflies and beetles 

 which, especially the former, abounded on the hiUs, we pro- 

 ceeded on our journey. The thermometer being at 89° in 

 the shade, we were glad of our bamboo awning ; and there 

 being no wind and a strong ebb tide, we made but little 

 progress for some time, moving slowly by a very meandering 

 course through a highly picturesque country. HiUs of 

 varying height rose on either side, usually covered with 

 vegetation, and occasionally opening and showing green 

 padi fields ; while in front an abrupt and very remarkable 



