Ch. XIV.] SCENERY OF THE EIVEE. 223 



of boats similar to our own, all collected at a common 

 halting-place. Two or three wood-fires were making splut- 

 tering attempts to burn under a steady down-pour, and 

 around them were groups of Malay boatmen busily moving 

 about, or cooking little pannikins of rice for their morning 

 meal. These being despatched the boats went on their 

 ways, some up, some down the river ; and in half an hour 

 we were alone. After our own boatmen had cooked their 

 rice, which they had well earned by six hours' continuous 

 paddling, we proceeded on our way, the weather clearing as 

 we advanced. 



The scenery of the river gradually increased in interest, 

 the low jungle-covered banks assuming a more rugged and 

 elevated character, and limestone bills here and there pic- 

 turesquely peeping- from above the foHage, their steep faces 

 set off in a frame of bamboos and other trees which grew 

 upon the river side. The stream, too, now began rapidly 

 to increase in swiftness, and this was the signal for our 

 boatmen to step ashore for a few minutes in order to cut 

 some stout bamboo poles, the object of which was presently 

 apparent. The paddles soon became of httle use in the 

 swift-flowing, shallow river, where the boat had to be skil- 

 fully piloted amid projecting rocks, and they were therefore 

 now laid aside, and our boatmen at once gave proof that 

 they were equal adepts in the art of poling. Their manage- 

 ment of the boats was perfect, and the rapids which we now 

 began to ascend afforded them ample scope, though it was 

 afterwards in descending them that their dexterity was 

 chiefly conspicuous. 



As we proceeded we were joined by several other boats, 

 all bound for the same destination as ourselves ; for it was 

 known up the river that Mr. Houghton was empowered by 



