232 RAMBLES OP A NATUEALIST. [Oh. XIV. 



having secured specimens, at once prepared to return. After 

 two hours' swift paddling down the stream, the light began 

 to fail ; and as the moon rose late, we were for two more 

 hours shooting the rapids in almost total darkness, for the 

 trees overshadowed the stream so as to cut off the feeble 

 light of the stars. It was here that the sMU of our Malay 

 and Dyak boatmen was tested. So completely were they 

 masters of the canoe, and so thoroughly acquainted with 

 every bend and fall of the river, that we proceeded with 

 perfect safety, although in the event of our missing the 

 channel, or striking against a stone, our slight skiffs must 

 in some places inevitably have been upset. There was 

 nothing for it, however, but to gather ourselves well up in 

 the middle of the canoe, and sit stUl, with fuU reliance upon 

 their powers. I was not sorry, however, when we at length 

 reached, in total darkness, the spot where our large boat 

 had been left, soon after which the moon rose, and the rest 

 of the way was plain sailing. Late at night we arrived at 

 the last and steepest rapid, which reaUy required skill even by 

 moonlight. Holding on by the gunwale I steadied myself 

 for the descent, and with a shout from the rowers, we shot 

 down, scarcely shipping a drop of water, and were once 

 more at our camping place. The bustle of our arrival soon 

 brought our servants with lights, for, not expecting us, they 

 had already retired under the attaps ; but a fire was quickly 

 kindled, and supper prepared, one ingredient of which was 

 the young fronds of a fern, a species of Marattia, which, 

 when boiled, makes an excellent and palatable dish. Our 

 mats were spread, not upon the ground, as it fortunately 

 happened, though in close proximity to it, for having stepped 

 off, barefooted, I was nipped and bitten in such a manner 

 that I was glad to beat a hasty retreat, and on holding the 



