276 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. [Oh. XVII. 



wooded, with here and there a cocoa-nut plantation, having 

 a hut built upon it, and impenetrable mangrove thickets 

 skirting the beach. The water was so shallow that we ran 

 aground, and had to wait for the tide, with only five feet 

 of water under our bows — a mishap which delayed us so 

 much, that it was dark before we arrived ; but the bright 

 lights, fire-works, and noise of tom-tom§ were suflGiciently 

 distinct to serve as landmarks to guide us to an anchorage. 



The morning light showed that Tanjong Putri was simply 

 a clearance in the jungle at the south point of Johore, with 

 apparently no outlet on the landward side. The noises 

 which we had heard on shore on our arrival still continued, 

 having gone on without intermission all night long — and in- 

 deed they did not cease as long as we were within hearing, 

 for the Chinese were keeping carnival. 



The occasion was an excellent one for observing Chinese 

 characteristics — for the larger part of the population ap- 

 peared to be formed of Celestials, although of course the 

 real natives are Malays, who appear to be attached to their 

 native ruler, and to be moreover proud of the travels fi-om 

 which he had just returned, and of the attention which he 

 had received from high quarters in England. I had an 

 interview with his Highness, who is styled the Tumonggong 

 of Johore, and had the honour of smoking a cigar and 

 drinking a glass of sherbet with him. He is a good-looking 

 young man of 30 or 31 years of age, rather stout, and taller 

 than the average of the Malays. Unlike his subjects and 

 countrymen, he cultivates a moustache, and, as might be 

 expected under the circumstances, he wore a European 

 costume. His manners were gentlemanly and agreeable, 

 and he treated me with unaffected urbanity and good-will. 

 He speaks excellent English ; and the conversation natu- 



