Ch. XVII.] CHINESE THEATEE. 279 



from the fact that the accompanying noise of tom-toms and 

 fifes ceased not day or night all the time we were within 

 hearing. 



There was the usual mixture of barbarism and splendour 

 which characterises all Chinese ceremonials. The sides of 

 the stage were occupied by a number of dirty, half-naked 

 boys and men, — ^regular gamins, — who perched themselves 

 upon the stage itself by some peculiar right, by virtue of 

 which they seemed entitled to reserved seats; and the actors 

 themselves exhibited strange contrasts to their richly em- 

 broidered and really handsome robes, for these were usually 

 open in front, disclosing their brown, bare skin from 

 the neck to below the navel. I found it impossible to 

 gather any hint as to the nature of the story or plot of 

 the play. 



Among the amusements of the Chinese population at such 

 a time of festivity, gambling holds a very prominent place. 

 The Chinese are passionately addicted to this vice, and 

 spend days and nights over cards and dice, imbibing the 

 passion from their very earliest years. A child who has 

 become the possessor of two cash, and goes to invest it in 

 sweetmeats, will either gamble it away before he arrives at 

 the stall, or will toss the vendor double or quits while he 

 still holds that vast sum in his hands. On the present 

 occasion there was in the town a large covered area entirely 

 occupied by gambling parties. Each party occupied a small 

 square space, upon which a piece of carpet is spread, and 

 around which the players squat upon the ground, three or 

 four being engaged in counting out the small change for 

 stakes, and attending to the business of the bank, while 

 space was afforded for about six more, always Chinamen, in 

 dress and appearance indistinguishable from coolies, who 



