332 EAMBLES OF A NATUEALIST. [Oh. XX. 



water's edge, for the better facility of loading boats. Large 

 salt-junks cluster in the neighbourhood of the salt-excise 

 house, which is about half-way between Whampoa and 

 Canton ; and every now and then gaily-painted war -junks, 

 with highly-decorated flags, and a great pan* of eyes painted 

 on the bows, drop down the river, their sides bristling with 

 awkward-looking guns. 



The approach to the city of Canton is not architectu- 

 rally striking. The pagoda in the Consul's grounds, and 

 the celebrated five-storeyed pagoda upon the heights, are 

 the only salient features — if we except the great unsightly 

 windowless structures which are used as pawnbrokers' ware- 

 houses. The river, poetically called the " Pearl," here 

 takes a bend to the left, leaving the White Cloud HUls 

 behind, and presenting a flat country in front, upon which 

 the city stands. Crowds of boats, and tiers of great junks 

 brilliantly painted, and usually ornamented with an elabo- 

 rate eagle upon the broad stern, form the most remarkable 

 features, and constitute a moving panorama of great singu- 

 larity and novelty. But the houses themselves, as far as 

 regards those lining the river, are not very unlike those which 

 we see on the banks of the Thames, and viewing those alone, 

 the traveller might almost fancy himself at Wapping, in 

 the neighbourhood of the Thames Tunnel. 



Nevertheless, there are few more extraordinary places 

 than the Canton River, supporting as it does a vast popula- 

 tion, which inhabits the numberless boats of all forms and 

 ■ all sizes. These boats, however, are nearly all moored, and 

 arranged in such a manner as least to interfere with the 

 navigation. They consequently form streets, in some parts, 

 of a novel and striking character, fuU of stirring life and 

 bustle. Outside these streets the sampan or junk plies its 



