CONTENTS. 'xi 



CHAPTER VIII. 



PAGE 



Vegetation of Ourika valley — Destruction of tlie native ti'ees — 

 Our progress checked — Enforced return — Shelluk village — 

 Eide from Ourika to Keraya — Trouble with our escort — A 

 friendly Shelluh sheik — Native desire for medical advice — 

 Characteristics of the Shelluhs — Zaouia of Moulai Ibrahim — 

 Camp in Ait Mesan valley ^Excursion to the head of the 

 valley — Reach the snow — Night travelling in the Atlas . 175 



CHAPTER IX. 



The Shelluh sheik bribed — Arrangements for stopping at 

 Arround — Medical practice among the Shelluhs— Arabic cor- 

 respondence — Unexpected difficulty — Strange fancies of the 

 natives — Threatening weather — Our house at Arround — 

 Gloomy morning — Saint's tomb — Escape from our guides — 

 Strange encounter — Snow-storm — Tagherot pass — Descent to 

 Arround — Continuance of bad weather — Sacrifice of a sheep 

 — Shelluh mountaineers — Fauna of the Great Atlas — Return 

 to Ilasni — Deplorable condition of our camp . . . 207 



CHAPTER X. 



Departure from Hasni — Plateau of Sektana — Grand view of the 

 Great Atlas — Departure of Maw — Village of Gurgouri — In- 

 trigues of Kaid el Hasbi — Passage of the Oued Nfys — An-ival 

 at Amsmiz — Friendly Governor — Difficulties as to further 

 progress — Position of Amsmiz — Sleeping quarters in the 

 Kasbah — Fanatical sheik — Shelluh market — View of the 

 Amsmiz valley — Village of Imieteli — Friendly Jews — Geo- 

 logical structure and vegetation of the valley — Sheik's oppo- 

 sition overcome — Ascent of Djebel Tezah — The guide left 

 behind — View from the summit — Anti-Atlas seen at last — 

 Deserted dwellings on the peak — Ancient oak forest — Rapid 

 descent — Night ride to Iminteli .... 23t) 



CHAPTER XI. 



Return to Amsmiz — Arround villagers in trouble — Pains and 

 pleasures of a botanist — Ride across the plain — Mzouda — ■ 

 Experiences of a Governor in Marocco — Hospitable chief of 



