CH. I. EIFF MOUNTAINS INACCESSIBLE. 9 



tended our journey. We learned from him that the 

 Sultan had issued orders to the Grovernor of the Atlas 

 provinces to allow Hooker to visit the range of the Great 

 Atlas south of the city of Marocco, and to take every 

 precaution for his comfort and safety ; but he added 

 that, although there was no reason to doubt the Sultan's 

 good faith, every artifice would be used to defeat the 

 object, and that it would not be prudent to start for the 

 south without an autograph letter from the Sultan him- 

 self, for which he had already made application. The 

 Court was at this time at Fez — several days' journey from 

 Tangier ; and, as business moves at a slow pace in this 

 country, it was probable that we might have to wait some 

 time for the necessary document. We therefore at once 

 decided on devoting the interval to excursions in the 

 neighbourhood of Tangier and Tetuan. The latter city 

 lies at no great distance from the lofty peaks of the Beiii 

 Hassan, probably the highest part of the north-western 

 range of the Lesser Atlas, best known as the Riff Moun- 

 tains. There coidd be no doubt as to the botanical 

 interest attaching to a visit to that range, the higher 

 region of which is entirely unknown to naturalists, and 

 we were very desirous to make an attempt in that direc- 

 tion. After full consideration, however, Sir J. D. Hay 

 felt it necessary to object to our project, as involving 

 undue risk. The Riff mountaineers enjoy a virtual in- 

 dependence, merely paying tribute to the Sultan. They 

 are fierce and fanatical ; and the presence of a Christian 

 on the highest mountain, which is rendered sacred by a 

 famous marabout — tomb of a Mohammedan saint — would 

 be regarded as a profanation. Meantime, we were led to 

 hope that we should be able to ascend the mountains 

 nearer to Tetuan, and there was no difiSculty whatever 

 about excursions in the neighbourhood of Tangier. 



Our first walk, in the afternoon of the 7th, was in the 

 agreeable society of Sir J. D. Hay, to Ravensrock, his 

 summer residence, on the wooded slope of the Djebel 



