STAET FOR TETUAI^. 25 



CHAPTEE II. 



start for Tetuan — Vegetation of the low country — Serpent charmers 

 — Twilight in the forest — The Fondak — Stormy night on the roof — 

 Breakfast on the hill— Biff Mountains — A Grovernor in chains — Fate 

 of high officials in Marocoo — Valley of Tetuan — Jew quarter of the 

 city — Ascent of the Beni Hosmar — Vegetation of the Mountain — 

 A quiet day — Jewish population — Eide to Geuta — Spanish cam- 

 paign in Marocco — Fortifications of Geuta — Return to European 

 civilisation — Spanish convict stations in Africa. 



On April 10 we started, rather late, for Tetuan, leav- 

 ing our tents and heavy baggage at Tangier. Our pompous 

 interpreter, Hadj Bel Mohammed by name, whose huge 

 blue spectacles seem to be permanent appendages of the 

 Victoria Hotel, we found forward and intrusive in manner, 

 and indolent and inefiScient in action, and altogether of no 

 account as a companion to travellers. Of the two soldiers 

 who formed the escort — one recognised by his taciturnity 

 the inferiority of his position ; but the other by his quaint 

 appearance and jocular disposition afforded us much 

 amusement, if not much reliable information. This little 

 fellow is properly called Hadj Mohammed, but he seems 

 to be familiarly known among the English visitors to 

 Tangier by the name of Bulbo. There was nothing mili- 

 tary about him, except a very long gun which, throughout 

 our journey, remained carefully covered up in an intricate 

 red cloth case. If by any chance his aid had really been 

 required, and such an unlikely suggestion were admitted 

 as that Bulbo would have done anything else than put 

 spurs to his horse and run away, he would have been 

 driven to beg the attacking party to give him a quarter 

 of an hour's delay to get ready for action. 



