ARRIVAL AT MOGADOR. 75 



CHAPTER IV. 



Arrival at Mogador — The Sultan's letter — Preparations for our journey 

 — The town of Mogador — The neighboiuring country — Ravages of 

 locusts— Native races of South Marocco — Excursion to the island — 

 Climate of Mogador — Its influence on consumption — Dinner with 

 the Governor. 



At 5 A.M. on April 26 we at length reached the port of 

 Mogador. Before many minutes a boat was alongside, 

 and we were warmly welcomed by a gentleman who intro- 

 duced himself as Mr. Carstensen, the British Vice-Consul, 

 brother-in-law of Sir J. D. Hay. He was, indeed, no 

 stranger; for, as a correspondent and active contributor 

 to the Royal Gardens at Kew, he had long been in friendly 

 relations with the chief of our party. To his energetic 

 good offices and hospitable attentions we owe deep obliga- 

 tions, and it was with sincere regret that we subsequently 

 heard of his premature death in 1873. 



At an early hour we were comfortably established in 

 the British Consulate, where our host and hostess received 

 us as old friends, and we were soon engaged in discussion 

 as to the arrangements for the prosecution of our journey, 

 in all of which Mr. Carstensen's familiarity with the 

 country and perfect command of the language were of the 

 utmost value. Having received previous notice of our 

 arrival and of the objects of our journey, he had already 

 prepared the way, and thus very much abridged the delays 

 that are iaevitable in such a country. 



The first step necessary was to call on the Govemor and 

 present to him the Sultan's letter. We were courteously 

 received by El Hadj Hamara, a well-looking man of 



