CH IV. INTERIOR OF MOGADOR. 81 



to Jackson's work, from drawings made about the beginning 

 of this century, we were positively assured that old people 

 in Mogador recollected the time when the island was con- 

 nected with the mainland by an isthmus, over which cattle 

 could be driven at low water ; and this story seemed to 

 have gained credence with the European inhabitants. 



Though it has no buildings of importance, the town if? 

 in one respect the most habitable in Marocco, being re- 

 markably clean, and in that respect superior to very many 

 seaports in Europe. This is largely due to the efforts of 

 two intelligent French physicians, who have at various 

 periods visited Mogador, but especially to the exertions of 

 Dr. Thevenin, who has resided there for many years. 



The Governor and other officials, with the European 

 consuls and merchants, all reside in the Kasbah — the chief 

 of the three quarters into which the town is divided. 

 Here are several narrow but regularly-built streets ; the 

 houses are mostly of two stories, enclosing a small court- 

 yard, which is entered by a low and narrow doorway from 

 the street. In the Moorish town, inhabited by natives of 

 the lower class, the houses are of one story, and poor in 

 appearance ; but the practice of whitewashing within and 

 without once every week makes them look clean, and, no 

 doubt, has much to do with the remarkable immunity of 

 this place from contagious and endemic diseases. The 

 Jewish town is much overcrowded ; but we were assured 

 that even here the modern gospel of soap and water has 

 made much progress. 



In the afternoon we sallied forth with our portfolios ; 

 but in deference to public opinion, which could not endure 

 that strangers of consequence should be seen trudging on 

 foot, we rode for about a mile out of the town. Its sur- 

 roundings are not prepossessing. The low tertiary lime- 

 stone rock, on which it is built, and which doubtless extends 

 inland for some distance, is covered up to the city walls 

 by blown sand, driven along the shore before the 8W. 

 winds, forming dunes that cover the whole surface ; and 



a 



