108 COOLNESS OF THE NIGHT. ch. v. 



zone it would appear that in ordinary years the rainfall is 

 sufficient to enable the natives to raise grain crops wherever 

 the soil is suitable for the purpose ; but in the interior, cul- 

 tivation is limited to the tracts that are capable of irriga- 

 tion from the streams descending from the Great Atlas, 

 or else to the immediate neighbourhood of wells. The 

 ground around Ain Oumast had borne a scanty crop of 

 grain, and the rough surface, now baked hard by the sun, 

 was not very comfortable for sleeping upon, even with the 

 intervention of a mattress of cork shavings. 



For a short way before our arrival, the main chain of 

 the Grreat Atlas had for the first time been in view, dimly 

 apparent at a distance of some sisty miles ; but as the 

 sun declined towards the horizon, the outlines became 

 clearer, and we naturally watched with increasing interest 

 every feature of that mysterious range seen, even from a 

 distance, by few civilised men, whose recesses we hoped to 

 be the first to explore. We discussed eagerly the question 

 whether some patches of lighter colour represented snow, 

 or merely surfaces of whitish limestone rock; and, as 

 usual, the only effect of discussion was to confirm each in 

 the impression first formed, which it was impossible to 

 verify or disprove unless, by viewing the range from the 

 same direction under similar conditions at a later season, 

 we could discover whether the appearances in question 

 should have altered or disappeared. 



The mona presented by the Kaid or sheik of the place 

 was naturally less profuse than that offered at Shedma, but 

 yet abundant for the needs of our camp. As almost 

 everywhere, save in the remoter valleys of the Atlas, green 

 tea and a quantity of white sugar formed a main feature 

 in the entertainment, and doubtless the most expensive to 

 the poor people who had to provide it. 



The day had been warm, though not oppressive, the 

 thermometer probably standing at about 80° Fahr. in the 

 shade, and the fall of temperature during the night was 

 very sensible. Even after the sun had risen on May 1 — 



