110 SIDI MOKTAR. ch. v. 



some notice. The Marocco Grovernment recognises, at 

 least in theory, the duty of protecting travellers from vio- 

 lence to their persons and goods ; for without some provi- 

 sion for the purpose the small amount of trade now existing 

 between the interior and the coast could scarcely continue 

 to exist. As well as all other executive functions, the 

 sovereign com.mits this to the Grovernor of each province, 

 who accordingly stations a few armed men at the places 

 where travellers are accustomed to halt. Such a post is 

 a Nzela. It does not imply the existence of any shelter, 

 and still less of any supplies for the sustenance of men 

 and cattle. In a country where the sparse population 

 lives in tents or temporary sheds, the traveller must pro- 

 vide such things for himself; but at a Nzela the wayfarer 

 may count on security from violence, and the guards are 

 entitled to a trifling payment for each beast of burden 

 that is committed to their protection. From any demands 

 of this nature, as well as from the tolls that are levied on 

 passing from one province to another, we were declared 

 by our escort to be free, as personages travelling under 

 the direct authority and protection of the Sultan. The 

 boundaries of the three provinces of Shedma, Mtouga, and 

 Ouled bou Sba met at Sidi Moktar ; but such places in 

 Marocco are proverbially unsafe, because they are the fre- 

 quent resort of robbers and outlaws. In case of a robbery 

 or murder being committed, the people of each tribe throw 

 the blame upon their neighbours, and the men of one 

 province are very shy of attempting to pursue malefactors 

 who take refuge within the boundaries of another. After 

 the commission of many outrages at this place, it was 

 found necessary to transfer a portion of territory to the 

 Ouled bou Sba, at the same time making the Grovernor 

 of that province and tribe responsible for the safety of 

 those whom business or piety lead to the sanctuary of 

 Sidi Moktar. 



As we rode onward the Great Atlas chain remained in 

 view, but dimly seen through the haze that increased with 



