CH. vu. CONDITION OF THE JEWS. 157 



effect. In the coast towns, under the eyes of European 

 consular agents, they seem to enjoy security from violence, 

 and even from insult. In the city of Marocco, where 

 they inhabit a separate quarter, walled in and accessible 

 only by two gates, they are safe so long as they keep 

 within those limits ; but they are still forced to walk 

 barefoot when they pass into the city, and are exposed to 

 derision and insult against which they dare not protest. 

 In the remoter parts of the territory, where their scattered 

 communities are found here and there, their condition is 

 apparently still worse, and they are frequently subjected 

 to brutal ill-usage ; but even there their superior intel- 

 ligence and skill in industrial crafts, for which the Moor 

 is incompetent, secures them a certain degree of con- 

 sideration.' 



We this day made acquaintance with Kaid el Hasbi, 

 the captain of the escort of five men, who, along with our 

 Mogador guard, was to travel with us through the Atlas. 

 Nature had given him a disagreeable countenance with a 

 forbidding expression, and our subsequent experience fully 

 confirmed the first unfavourable impression. 



It had been arranged that our first day's journey from 

 Marocco was to be a short one, and accordingly our final 

 start on Monday, May 8, was delayed until 8 a.m. Our 

 large tent, too heavy for mules, had been sent back to 

 Mogador ; but, nevertheless, our baggage formed a very 

 sufficient load for nine mules. Not counting our inter- 

 preter and Hooker's European attendant, we had nine 

 followers engaged in various capacities, besides twelve men 

 in charge of the hired animals, making up altogether, with 

 the escort, who numbered nine privates and two officers, 

 a party of thirty-seven men and thirty-three horses and 

 mules. We wound slowly through the filthy lanes of the 



' The reader who may desire a more detailed aooount of the city 

 of Marocco than we can afford is referred to the Description and Plan 

 of the City, by M. Paul Lambert, in the Bulletin of the French Geo- 

 graphical Society for 1868. 



