CH. VII. JEWISH SUPPLIANTS. 169 



agreeable change from the biscuit to which we were often 

 reduced. 



Our impressions on this our first acquaintance with the 

 outer region of the Great Atlas were very agreeable. The 

 country appeared populous and fruitful. There was, in- 

 deed, little space for tillage, and that was of the rudest 

 kind; but besides the olive, which attains a great size, 

 the carob {Ceratonia Siliqua) and walnut, both growing 

 to perfection, combine beauty with economic value. The 

 common Opuntia, or Indian fig, also grows luxuriantly, 

 and supplies an item in the diet of the natives. 



Before we started, about 3 p.m. a body of miserable- 

 looking Jews presented themselves, and offered a mona of 

 olives, chilis, cakes of repulsive appearance, and some 

 terrible spirituous liquor served in a battered tin teapot. 

 When we excused ourselves on the ground that we had but 

 just finished eating, they insisted that we should, at least, 

 partake of the liquor. Abraham explained that we could 

 not possibly drink out of a vessel so indescribably foul as 

 the earthenware cup presented to us ; whereupon one of 

 the women lifted the skirt of her filthy petticoal, and 

 proceeded to polish the cup to her own satisfaction. 

 There was something pathetic in the abject air of these 

 poor people, of whom there are many communities in this 

 part of the Atlas, Born to suffering and oppression, they 

 yet contrive to hold together, and even increase their 

 numbers, thanks to superior intelligence and skill which 

 make them almost indispensable to their neighbours. 

 They are forced by law or custom to wear none but black 

 outer garments, and the older men have high brimless 

 cylindrical hats, tapering somewhat towards the top. They 

 had taken it into their heads that Christian strangers 

 travelling with a large escort must be persons of influence 

 and authority, and had come to implore our favour and 

 protection. The men concluded by kissing the skirts of 

 our jellabias ; and, as we were riding off, the women, who 

 stood in a group behind, advanced and kissed our knees, 



