CH. IX. EVENING ILLUMINATION. 225 



mas holidays. We learned that the sheik. Si Hassan, was 

 waiting for us some way lower down in the valley, and 

 without halting we pushed on to meet him. Long wait- 

 ing in cold and wet does not mend any man's temper, and 

 the sheik, already much annoyed that his injunctions not 

 to let us go beyond the Saint's tomb had been ineffectual, 

 was doubtless in a savage humour when we at length ap- 

 peared, after successfully breaking through all the re- 

 straints he had contrived. Yet he managed to put a good 

 fa,ce on the matter, offered his congratulations on our safe 

 return, and invited us to partake of some food that was 

 provided in a spot where an overhanging rock gave partial 

 shelter. This did not save the poor fellows who had done 

 their best to keep us within the intended limit from a 

 desperate ' blowing-up,' and many threats of future ven- 

 geance. Drenched and cold as we were, the invitation to 

 halt was anything but tempting ; but in this country the 

 obligations of hospitality are binding on the receiver as 

 well as the giver, and it was necessary to wait some time 

 and eat a few mouthfuls before proceeding on our home- 

 ward way to Arround. 



As we approached the village, we witnessed a marvel- 

 lous exhibition of colour that, even in our weather-beaten 

 condition, impressed us with admiration. The steep 

 ridges enclosing the valley were now thickly powdered 

 with snow, but almost concealed from view by the clouds 

 that hung low over our heads. Towards sunset these 

 gradually rose up and melted into mist, and the whole 

 scene was transfused with a delicate sea-green hue that 

 seemed bright by contrast with the sombre tints in which 

 we had been enveloped during the day. It often happens 

 in bad weather that as the distant horizon is lit up towards 

 sunset the rays, travelling under the dense strata of cloud 

 that cover a mountain district, produce at that hour the 

 effect of sudden illlumination ; but whether the green tint 

 on this occasion was due to a similar colour in the distant 



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