244 ARRIVAL AT GURGOURI. ch. x. 



apparently uninhabited, and the Kaid dwelt in a less im- 

 posing structure close to the village. 



Our present design was to approach the high summits 

 of the Atlas that we had viewed in the morning through 

 one of the lateral valleys of the Oued Nfys, whence, as it 

 appeared, the ascent might be effected without serious 

 difficulty. The leaders of our escort had ridden on before 

 to announce our arrival, and, after a short halt, we ap- 

 proached the village through a belt of gardens and olive 

 groves. No Grovernor appeared to meet us, but only a 

 messenger with some lame excuse for his non-appearance. 

 It would seem that our dissatisfaction at this want of 

 attention was speedily reported, and that the Raid's second 

 thoughts were different from his first, for he presently 

 appeared just at the entrance to his Jcasbah. He was a 

 tall, handsome man, courteous, but no way cordial in his 

 greeting. He invited us to stop at this place, offering at 

 the same time a suitable mona. It was necessary, how- 

 ever, to bring the question as to our further progress to 

 a speedy decision ; and when the proposal to ascend the 

 neighbouring mountains was met by a positive refusal, 

 and an intimation that such an expedition might be 

 effected from Amsmiz, the adjoining district to the W. of 

 the Oued Nfys, Hooker at once decided to continue our 

 journey, and to refuse the proffered entertainment. 



It appeared that our refusal was felt by the Kaid as a 

 slight ; so, by way of offering an irresistible attraction, a • 

 cow was led out and slaughtered on the spot, close to the 

 kasbah. Fresh beef is a delicacy rarely found in Marocco ; 

 but even this failed to move us. Our greedy soldiers 

 were furious at being baulked of the opportunity for 

 feasting and idling, which they evidently considered the 

 main object of their mission, and our departure from 

 Grurgouri was accompanied by the surly faces and mut- 

 tered grumblings of our escort. 



It was only on the following day that, owing to the 

 continuing feud between the two men, we learned, through 



