278 THE KAID OF MZOUDA. ch. xi. 



Bmall collections made during the day, and writing up our 

 notes, and a frugal supper, the time was fully occupied 

 until 10 P.M., when by previous arrangement we paid our 

 visit to the Governor. 



We found a spare-looking man of serious mien, quite 

 devoid of the coarse, overfed, sensual aspect common among 

 the men in authority in Marocco. The usual conversation as 

 to the objects of our journey, led to an assurance that the 

 district under his jurisdiction did not extend to the higher 

 peaks of the Atlas, or, as it was expressed, ' did not go to 

 the snow.' This may not improbably have been quite 

 true, but our experience of El Hasbi's machinations made 

 us now very incredulous as to such statements. It was, how- 

 ever, obvious that Mzouda was not a convenient centre 

 for mountain excursions, and we made no objection to 

 the proposal that we should on the following day proceed to 

 Seksaoua, which stands close to the foot of the mountains. 



When we cam^ to know more of his history, we found 

 no cause to wonder at the grave and depressed de- 

 meanour of our host. He had succeeded to the govern- 

 ment of his native district in early life, and had held it 

 for many years when he was invited by the Sultan to Fez. 

 On his arrival he was thrown into a dungeon where he had 

 remained ten years, frequently subjected to torture, until 

 so much of the wealth he was supposed to have amassed 

 during his administration had been disgorged as satisfied 

 the demands of the sovereign or some ruling favourite ; and 

 then, being released, he was sent back again to govern his 

 district with the agreeable prospect of renewing the same 

 experience after some uncertain interval. If actual fact 

 in this country did not supply frequent proof, it would 

 seem scarcely credible that the attractions of power and 

 comparative wealth should induce men to face such a ter- 

 rible, yet almost inevitable, future. 



The sky had cleared during the night, but the morning 

 of May 25 was unpromising. At 8 a.m., shortly before 

 we started, the thermometer marked only 65° F., although 



