CH. XI A HOSPITABLE CHIEF. 281 



Before long we received a courteous message inviting 

 us to stop at the kasbah ; but as it seemed clear that Sek- 

 saoua promised more easy access to the higher mountains, 

 we had no hesitation in adhering to the plan already fixed, 

 and declining the proffered hospitality. It was not with- 

 out regret that we adhered to our resolution, when the chief 

 came out with a numerous suite to visit us at our halting- 

 place close to the kasbah. The friendly air of the worthy 

 old man, which evidently made a deep impression on M. 

 Balansa, was not without effect upon us. Failing to in- 

 duce us to stop on our way, he sent an ample inona, 

 including, besides tea and sugar, a parcel of candles of 

 French manufacture, the more acceptable as our supply 

 threatened to run short before we could reach JMogador. 



Our halting-place was in a pleasant spot overlooking 

 the broad bed of the Oued Usbi, which appears to unite 

 the torrent from a considerable valley south of Seksaoua 

 with several minor streams from the Atlas, and to be the 

 main affluent of the river of Sheshaoua. The weather had 

 improved, and the thermometer stood at about 70° F. in 

 the shade, our height above the sea being 2,671 feet 

 (814*3 m.). Spiny Compositw belonging to the genera 

 Scolymus, Echinops, Cnicus, and Onopordum, were the 

 most conspicuous plants ; but, as no species not already 

 gathered were seen here, we dispensed ourselves from 

 collecting and drying these troublesome inmates of the 

 herbarium. 



It was near 4 p.m. when we started for Seksaoua, and, 

 after crossing the Oued Usbi, held on in a SW. direction 

 nearly parallel to its course. In little more than an hour 

 we came to a large village, which was the scene of unex- 

 pected commotion. As our cavalcade was seen to approach, 

 some natives ran on to announce the fact to the villagers, 

 and by the time we reached the first houses the whole 

 population turned out, and a scene ensued of which no 

 description can give an idea. The men who lined the 

 way on either side shouted with emulous vehemence and 



