DEPAETUEB FEOM MILHAIN. 299 



CHAPTEE XII. 



Departure from Milha'm — Defile of Am Tarsil — Dwellings of the 

 troglodytes — Arrival at Mtouga — Gloomy evening — Governor's re- 

 turn from the fight — Prisoners of war — Their fate — Ride to Mskala 

 — A venerable Moor — Eeturn to the hubah of Shedma — Poisoned 

 guests — Ride to Ain el-Hadjar — The Icon mountain — Ancient 

 mining work — Eccentric soldier — Ascent of Djebel Hadid — Ruins 

 of Akermout — Ride to Mogador — A kasibah in ruins — Powder play 

 on the beach — Return to Mogador, 



The partial failure of our plans doubtless had a depress- 

 ing effect on the moming of May 29, and this was 

 increased by the aspect of the weather, which was misty, 

 and before long turned to fine, drizzling rain. At 8 a.m. 

 the thermometer stood at 58° F., and we found the 

 height above the sea of our camp at Milhain to be 3,397 

 feet (1, 035*3 metres). We were in no hurry to start^^; 

 but, as the rain grew lighter and finally ceased, we got 

 under way about 1 1 a.m. The sheik, who had provided 

 for our wants and those of our escort on a liberal scale, 

 escorted us for a short distance, and we parted with 

 friendly expressions on both sides. 



Our course lay somewhat west of due north, over a 

 bare and sterile country. Small hamlets, surrounded by 

 a nan'ow belt of cultivation, were seen at rather wide 

 intervals ; and, save a few oUve tress near the houses, we 

 did not pass a single tree dm-ing the day. Artemisia 

 Herba-alba, and Ghenopodiacece of the Salsola tribe, 

 were the prevailing plants, indicating the presence of 

 gypsum and of soluble salts in the soil. About three 

 o'clock we approached a large village, with a massive 

 square kasbah, and soon after, following a dry watercourse. 



