314 PILGEIMS TO A SAINT'S TOMB. 



CH. XII. 



seem to be more often limited to the zone surrounding the 

 higher mountains. 



Among other articles intended for presents, Ball had 

 picked up in London a large Highland brooch, with a 

 yellow cairngorm crystal set in silver. This, with an 

 opera-glass, was given to the Grovemor's son as we took 

 leave of him. The use of gold or silver and jewels for 

 personal adornment is forbidden by law or custom to 

 Moorish men ; and the gift, which was sure to be trans- 

 ferred to a favoiu-ite wife, did not seem to be much 

 appreciated. 



About mid-day we started for our short day's ride, 

 forming, with Mr. Carstensen and his suite, a numerous 

 cavalcade. Our course lay about WNW., over low undu- 

 lating hills, dotted with Argan trees. Most of the surface was 

 under cultivation, and appeared to be moderately fertile. 

 At 2.30 P.M. we reached an olive grove near to a zaouia 

 or sanctuary, called El Masaats. Close to this was a 

 dwelling, on a larger scale than is common in this country, 

 belonging to a man of some substance, with whom Mr. 

 Carstensen had friendly relations. It would have been 

 impossible to pass his home without a visit, and equally 

 impossible, according to local ideas, for him to neglect the 

 rites of hospitality. Luncheon for the entire party was 

 speedily provided, and, while assisting as spectators at the 

 lively conversation, we once more had to admire Mr. Car- 

 stensen's perfect command of the native dialect. 



As we sat under the trees several parties of natives, 

 dressed in their best, passed by on their way to the 

 adjoining zaouia. This was the anniversary of the death 

 of the local saint buried at the sanctuary; and on such 

 occasions the people of this country, whether Moor or 

 Shelluh, do not fail to resort to the sacred spot. For the 

 great majority the occasion seems to be no more than a 

 welcome opportunity for breaking the monotony of their 

 daily life. Excepting our Mogador Kaid, who was most 

 exact in the performance of his devotions, we saw little 



