334 FAREWELL GIFTS. ch. xin. 



among them presents and rewards, well earned by some, 

 and which could not be refused even to the less deserving. 

 A great change had come over the appearance of many 

 of our men since their return. Ambak and Hamed, who 

 had made the journey on foot, with none but the scantiest 

 and the poorest clothing, now appeared fresh from the 

 bath and dressed in their best : Hamed looking especially 

 dignified in a snow-white turban, and formidable-looking 

 dagger stuck in his girdle. All seemed pleased and 

 satistied with the very moderate sums awarded them — 

 to which in the case of the more deserving were added 

 knives and other articles of English cutlery. The soldiers 

 who had travelled all the way from Mogador received 

 eight dollars (40 francs) each, while to the Marocco men 

 were given five dollars each. 



When the rest were disposed of, there remained the 

 two officers. Towards Kaid el Hadj, who had always 

 maintained a friendly and respectful bearing, we had none 

 but kindly feelings. When, in addition to the present of 

 twelve dollars, Hooker handed him a silver watch, a large 

 sheath-knife, and a few smaller presents, the old man was 

 quite overcome ; his eyes were filled with tears ; and he 

 took leave of us with many pious wishes for our future 

 welfare. As regards El Hasbi the case was very different. 

 He had from the very day of our departure from Marocco 

 done his utmost to defeat our wishes and plans, and had 

 not even the grace to veil his opposition beneath a civil 

 exterior. Hooker decided on writing a letter to El 

 Graoui, reporting our opinion of the conduct of his sub- 

 ordinate, and sending this to the great man with a sum of 

 ten dollars, to be given to El Hasbi, or withheld, as he 

 might decide. 



The Haha troubles affected our pockets in an unex- 

 pected way. In ordinary times there is a constant demand 

 for baggage animals at Mogador, and we were led to 

 expect that we should sell at a profit the mules that we 

 had bought at Marocco, The usual price at Mogador is 



