158 GRAND GULF MAGNOLIA STEAMER. [CHAP. XXXII. 



than when we left New Orleans, but the woods crowning the 

 bluffs are beautiful from the variety of trees, many of them ever 

 greens, and we were charmed with the melody of the mocking 

 birds, and the warm sun brought out many large and brilliantly 

 colored butterflies, and more insects of other kinds than I had 

 yet seen in the south. Among these were a beetle (Phaneus 

 carnifex), with green and gold wing-cases, and a horn on the 

 thorax. The name of bug is given to all beetles (Coleopteral) 

 here, and does not seem to awaken the same unpleasant associa 

 tions as it suggests to English ears. Even the elegant fire-fly is 

 called a lightning-bug, and ladies who have diamond beetles set 

 in brooches, ask you to admire their beautiful bugs. The Lon 

 doners, by way of compensation, miscall the cockroach a black 

 beetle. 



From Grand Gulf we embarked in the Magnolia, which had 

 brought my wife to Natchez, and, having since made a trip to 

 St. Louis and New Orleans, was on its return up the river. It 

 is a new boat, and, among other improvements, has a separate 

 sleeping cabin for the colored servants. The furniture in the 

 principal saloon is of fine Utrecht velvet, and the hanging lusters 

 for gas very brilliant : the beds excellent ; but the powerful 

 vibration caused by the machinery far from agreeable. Our 

 state room contained a chest of drawers, and cupboards for hang 

 ing up ladies dresses. Ample time was allowed for dinner, and 

 we thought the fare only too sumptuous. The repast began 

 with turtle soup, and two kinds of fish ; then followed a variety 

 of made dishes, admirably cooked, and then a course of cocoa-nut 

 pies, jellies, preserved bananas, oranges, grapes, and ice-creams, 

 concluding with coffee. The claret was excellent, and it may 

 seem strange, at first, that they who indulge in such luxuries, 

 can drink freely of the opaque, unfiltered water of the Mississippi. 

 But this fluid has, at least the merit of being cool on a hot day, 

 and is believed to be very wholesome. We found it pleasant to 

 the taste, however untempting to the sight. Few of the praises 

 bestowed by Denham on the Thames can be lavished on the 

 Mississippi ; for, though deep, it is not clear, nor is it &quot; without 

 o erflowing full.&quot; Yet, in spite of the occasional undermining 



