1855.] 



REVIEWS. 



329 



becoming broken up by the action of tlie sea, and, in some cases, 

 dismantled by wreckers, before they can obtain assistance from Quebec, 

 which port, strange to say, is the only place from the Atlantic to 

 Montreal, (a distance of upwards of eight hundred miles), where 

 vessels can be properly overhauled, or be supplied with the commonest 

 stores, such as anchors, chains, sails, &c. For steam tugs, employed 

 for the relief of vessels in distress, Ellis Bay might also be made an* 

 excellent station. With the facilities there for procuring shelter for 

 our shipping in a portion of the St. Lawrence, where a spacious and 

 deep harbour is more wanted, than in any other part of the river or 

 gulf, it is astonishing that no attention has yet been directed to that 

 spot. This neglect, however, cannot long continue. It could be made 

 not only a fine commercial harbour, but also an excellent naval station, 

 in the most convenient .and central spot for commanding, with a few 

 steam-vessels or gunboats, the two entrances of the river, and for 

 sending out cruisers up the latter, or to any part of the gulf. 



Its influence as a check upon " wreckers," who swarm in the St. 

 Lawrence more than is generally supposed, might also be enlarged 

 upon. 



Besides the advantages which have been glanced at as belonging to 

 Ellis Bay, some of the best soil, and some natural meadows, produc- 

 ing excellent grasses, six feet high, are found upon itS shores, where 

 the resident in charge of the provision post, grows every description 

 of vegetables ; but wheat, or any other grain, has never been tried in 

 that part of tlie island. It is also stated, that, within a few miles of 

 the bay, wild hay could be cut sufficient to feed a thousand head of 

 cattle during the winter. Nor is this spot barren in scenery ; for, 

 upon approaching it, a most pleasing view is obtained of the spacious 

 , bay, having in all parts a fine beach, which at each side is bounded by 

 wooded cliffs, those on the east side showing table land and other 

 heights beyond, and at the head of the bay the beach gently rises and 

 expands into a slightly rolling country, containing forest and meadow 

 land ; the whole being relieved in the distance by two hills of moderate 

 height, covered with trees. Near the centre of the bay, a few yards 

 from the beach, stand the buildings, the garden and fields of the re- 

 sident, close to a picturesque trout stream. When Anticosti shall be 

 properly known and occupied, this spot will probably become the re- 

 sort of many of those, who now seek health cr recreation, at the less 

 bracing and less interesiing watering places upon the main shores of 

 tlic river; and of the salubrity of the climate there can be no doubt, 

 for all who have resided there, describe it as being the most healthy 

 place in the world. The first seigneur, (to whom it was granted in 

 1680 for services rendered to the Crown of France), used to reside 

 every summer upon the island, and it is supposed that he was buried 

 there. At this spot there are many substantial elements for the grow- 

 ing up of a large and flourishing town, some of which ai-e alluded to 

 in other parts of this communication. 



There is also excellent shelter for large schooners at Fox Bay, at 

 the North-East end of the island, and also at the South West Point, 

 where it is quite practicable to make a harbour of refuge for the 

 largest ships ; which would be of great use to homeward-bound vessels 

 in the Autumn, whenever south-east winds set in, to run into and 

 anchor, instead of being driven back for several hundred miles, and 

 having to encounter again, under the worst circumstances, the most 

 dangerous part of the whole navigation between the Atlantic and 

 Quebec. There are also sever.al good roadsteads, such as Bear Bay, 

 situated on the north side of the island, sheltered from most winds, 

 with good holding-ground. Observation River, lying five miles west 

 of South West I'oint, has sometimes six feet of water at the entrance ; 

 and there is hardly a mile of coast on any part of the island without 

 its stream of fresh and delicious water, many of them proceeding from 

 lakes, one of which, at the head of Observation River, is supposed to 

 be nearly twenty miles long and several broad. Some of the rivers 

 have very high banks, with very beautiful falls, and excellent mill 

 sites, and these falls have a good supply of water dui-ing the whole 

 summer. The island on the south side generally rises from about 

 twenty to sixty feet above the beach, (but at the entrance of Observa- 

 tion River it is betweeu 200 and 300 feet high), and is nearly level to 

 the centre, where a range of moderate sized hills appear to run its en- 

 tire length, and upon the north side to terminate in steep cliffs. It is 

 mostly covered with a thick forest of trees, stunted near the shore, 

 (like those upon a great part of the coasts of England ami of other 

 countries), but which become gradually larger as they approach the 

 interior, and are less exposed to the influence of the wind and sea. 

 This is very remarkable upon some of the bays, where, at the exposed 

 points, they are very small, and gradually increase in size from each 

 2 



side to the centre ; those nearest the sea being some times quite white 

 in appearance, ffom the salt which is thrown, and crystalizes upon 

 them. It is the stunted growth of the wood upon the sea shore, which 

 has given a coloring to the reports of those persons, who, having land- 

 ed upon the beach for a few hours only, have pronounced judgment 

 upon the whole island from what they saw there. The trees are spruce, 

 fir, red and white birch, ash, quantities of very fine tamarack, and 

 upon the north side of the island, some good sized pine. With the 

 tamarack and pine growing there, and the immense quantities of v.al- 

 uable timber drifted upon the island from Quebec and other places 

 after every easterly gale, many ships might be built every year. Like 

 the valuable meadows for cattle and sheep, which have recently been 

 discovered in Minnesota in the " Far West," there are here many very 

 fine natur.al meadows, producing rich grasses, five or six feet high ; 

 and in some parts there .are alternate ranges of wood and open plain. 

 On the south side of the island there are several peat bogs of some ex- 

 tent, .and some salt marshes, caused by the overflowing of the sea at 

 certain periods, which must tend to fertilize rather than to impoverish 

 the land, and, near the South West Point, there are some large salt 

 ponds, which, were labor plentiful there, might be turned to account 

 in the manufacture of salt; a manufacture which would become of 

 some value to a great part of our North American fisheries, which, as 

 well as the whole of Canada, are now supplied with salt from England 

 or the United States, and, for curing fish and provisions, bay salt, 

 formed from the sea and from salt ponds, is the most valuable. In 

 consequence of there not having been a sufficient supply of salt upon 

 the island, an immense quantity of fish, caught at Anticosti last year, 

 had to be thrown aw.ay. 



Of the other resources and capabilities of Anticosti, in the 

 event of its being auspiciously settled, the following may be 

 mentioned : — 



Rearing of cattle and sheep, for the supply of those engaged in the 

 fisheries, of shipping, and of the dear markets at Quebec, would, no 

 doubt, pay very handsomely. While the natural grasses are as rich 

 as any upon this continent," it appears that cattle can be left outto 

 graze" there longer than they can be at Quebec : a circumstance which 

 has just been communicated to the writer by the present lessee of the 

 island, who has at this moment several head of fine cattle of the Ayr- 

 shire breed, at the South West Point. But if the natural grasses 

 should not be found sufficient for numerous herds of cattle, the famous 

 tussac grass of the Falkland Islands, which delights in a salt atmos- 

 phere, and which has been carried to the Orkney Islands, and been 

 found to flourish there, might he introduced. At the former it grows 

 upon peat similar to that which exists at Anticosti. The seed of this 

 grass has already become an article of profitable export from the 

 Falkland Islands ; and the grass is found upon many parts of the coasf 

 of South America, where wild cattle abound. AVhen we consider that 

 remote and inclement Iceland raises her flocks and herds, her sheep 

 numbering 500,000, her horses 60,000, and her horned cattle 40.000, 

 and exports the finest fleeces, also dairy and other produce, we have 

 every reason to hope, that Anticosti, situated in the midst of the 

 fisheries, which employ manv thousand men, of a vast traffic, carried 

 on by upwards of two"thous.and ships, and within easy approach of 

 many valuable markets, may be made as profitable a grazing country 

 as any portion of British North America. 



At the South West Point, both Air. Corbet, the lessee of the island, 

 and Mr. Pope, the light-house keeper, have several head of cattle, 

 as well as pigs and poultry, all of which are in excellent condi- 

 tion. Of the former, Mr. Corbet says, they look better in the sprmg 

 than cattle do at that season at any place upon the St. Lawrence below 

 Quebec. 



Resting upon the substratum of limestone, the soil of Anticosti 

 should be a warm one, and if cleared to any extent, and thereby ex- 

 posed to the sun, and drained where it may require drainage, it would 

 no doubt become a productive one. For tho purpose, cither of 

 drainan-e or of irrigation, as the one or the other may be desirable, 

 every facility is oftered by the numerous rivers and rapid strcama 

 existin" in all parts of the island. The composition of the cliffs alone, 

 some of which, according to Capt. Bayfield, R. N., contain sand, clay 

 and limestone, indicates that there must be good soil of considerable 

 extent in many parts of the island, which only requires clearing and 

 cultivation to yiehl verv fairlv ; for, with these substances, and tho 

 fine mould of tho vegetjible deposits, which have been accumulaUng in 

 the woods for ages, what better farming lands could be desired? 



