956 



THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 



IvAKK MAGGIORE 



A short journey by rail brings one to 

 the edge of Lake Maggiore, which 

 though hmited to a certain extent in its 

 beauty area, is unsurpassed in parts. The 

 northern portion is by far the best, the 

 beauty culminating in the neighborhood 

 of Stresa. It was called by the Romans 

 Lacus Verbanus, and is, as its name im- 

 pliesv'^the largest in the vicinity, being 

 forty miles long and in places six to 

 seven miles wide. It is a beautiful and 

 picturesque ride down the lake, passing 

 many summer homes and villas, with 

 their lovely surroundings, nestling in 

 peace at the foot of the many mountain 

 peaks, and one may hear the distant tingle 

 of bells from the herds quietly grazing 

 in some far-off pasture. 



One of the first places of interest to 

 the traveler is Laveno, situated on the 

 west coast of the lake and near the moun- 

 tain of Tasso del Ferro. From the sum- 

 mit the white marble Cathedral of Milan, 

 over 40 miles away, can be seen dis- 

 tinctly, with its many turrets and pin- 

 nacles. 



Across the lake lies Pallanza, a busy 

 little town at the foot of Mt. Rosso, 

 which is more of a winter resort, owing 

 to its receiving the warm southern winds. 



BORROMKAN ISIvES 



Proceeding southward on our journey, 

 we encounter the interesting Borromean 

 Isles, which are four in number — Isola S. 

 Giovanni, Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and 

 Isola Superiore — the first three belonging 

 to the noble family of Borromeo. 



Isola Madre is a charming place, built 

 with seven terraces, having gardens con- 

 taining rich and rare tropical fruit-trees 

 and flowers growing in profusion. It is 

 well kept and a fine place to spend a 

 pleasant hour or so, enjoying such a col- 

 lection of nature's growth. 



ISOIvA BElvIvA 



This island is thoroughly artificial and 

 rather more curious than beautiful, with 

 terraces, formal gardens, and groves, 

 which contrast with the wildness and 

 simplicity of some of the islands of this 

 group (see pages 952 and 953). 



It has an interesting history, for pre- 

 vious to 1670 it was nothing but a barren 



rock, without vegetation and subjected 

 to the washing of the waves, which had 

 dashed against it for centuries, almost 

 severing it in twain. At that time Count 

 Borromeo started the great task of mak- 

 ing it into the fairy place it is today by 

 quarrying the rock from places and fill- 

 ing it in others, building the arches, ter- 

 races, and buttresses. 



Thousands of boat-loads of rich eartli 

 were brought from the mainland and dis- 

 tributed over the rocks in sufficient depth 

 to insure vegetation its proper nourish- 

 ment. This being accomplished, the cha- 

 teau was built and finished in a lavish 

 manner, many of the original articles still 

 remaining intact, such as furniture, dra- 

 peries, curious and personal effects of the 

 various residents. Among other things 

 of historic interest here is the bed in 

 which Napoleon slept the night before 

 the battle of Marengo. 



There are a number of terraces, one 

 built upon another, spacious walks en- 

 circling the island and shaded by fine old 

 trees of every shape and kind. 



Amid these surroundings strut a flock 

 of pure white peacocks, which seem ever 

 ready to welcome the visitors and display 

 their beautiful snow-white plumage (see 

 pictures, pages 954 and 955). 



There is a most exquisite view of the 

 distant bold mountain peaks of some of 

 the higher Alps, including Mt. Rosa, the 

 Strahlhorn, and the twin white forked 

 peaks of the Simplon. 



On Isola Superiore is a charming little 

 fishing village, very compact and con- 

 trasting with the clean and neat island 

 just described. 



The white town of Stresa lies on the 

 edge of the lake, while on the mountain 

 slopes back of the town are verdant pas- 

 tures for the grazing of the herds. A 

 very fine view is to be had from here of 

 the Borromean Isles, lying but a short 

 distance to the northward. 



Mt. Mottarone, which is near here., 

 rivals the Rigi of Switzerland in the fine 

 view to be had from its summit. The 

 plains of Lombardy and Piedmont spread 

 out in panorama, while their rivers ap- 

 pear as ribbons of silver interlacing them. 



From Stresa we again take the train 

 on our journey to Milan, thus completing 

 the circuit of the lakes. 



