6 TRAVELS AMONOST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. i. 



30 to 35 feet, and, overflowing its banks, turns the country into 

 a vast lake. Hence many of the houses in this district are built 

 on piles or posts. The area over which the floods extend is 

 indicated by the houses that are constructed in this manner. 



We left Bodegas at 1.20 p.m. on December 14, and crossing 

 by a bridge to the right bank of the river commenced the 

 journey over some open, flat, sandy ground. All went comfort- 

 ably for a time. Jean-Antoine Oarrel headed the caravan, 

 mounted,^ carrying one of the mercurial barometers and some 

 other instruments; I followed, similarly equipped ; then came 

 the baggage animals, and the muleteers (arrieros) with Louis 

 and Perring brought up the rear. Just one hour after the start, 

 when we were jogging quietly along, the leading mule suddenly 

 became possessed by ten thousand devils, and rushed hither and 

 thither, throwing its heels high in the air ; and succeediug in 

 loosening its load, which turned round under its belly, it then 

 commenced a series of violent fore and aft movements with its 

 hoofs, to try to pulverize my photographic camera, and the other 

 things which it carried. 



In course of time we got to regard such episodes as a part 

 of the daily routine. The most outrageous performers were 

 generally the animals with the lightest loads ; and, unless their 

 extravagancies were promptly checked, their example became 

 contagious, and the whole troop scattered, some galloping away, 

 while the rest engaged themselves in madly battering their loads 

 with the intention of dislodging them. A load on the Quito 

 road usually weighs more than 300 lbs., and we probably com- 

 mitted a mistake in giving our beasts too little to carry in the 

 low country.^ 



1 In order to travel quickly, a considerable part of my baggage was sent out 

 in advance, and was placed in secure hands at Guaranda and Quito. I am 

 much indebted to Mr. Theakston, a forwarding agent at Bodegas, for his atten- 

 tions there and at other places. 



2 All my cases were made with a view to transit by mules, and none weighed 

 more than 75 lbs. Two of these and a few small articles were allotted to each 



