CHAP. 



A ROYAL ROAD, 



9 



Indians, who liumbly doffed their hats as tliey passed by. All 

 day long, in front or behind, tliere could be heard a subdued 

 murmur of snortings, braying, smashing, and objurgation ; and 

 from time to time, at fresh bends in the road, another caravan 

 would appear, — horned cattle doing duty as well as horses, asses, 

 and mules — the exclamations and whip-cracking became louder^ 



A COLLECTOR. 



and we could distinguish the cries of the arrieros — their 

 id ' Burras ! ' ' Miila ha lias,^ and ' Cholos,'' mino-led 



' Burros ! ' 



with many * Lados ! ' and expressions which will not bear 



translation. 



For most of the way from Bodegas to Savaneta the Ro^'al 



road was 'just such a beaten track as may be seen on many 



English commons. Next it led through shady jungle, and after 



Playas was passed it began to rise, jungle gradually changed to 



forest, and the road became damp, dirty, and confined. When 



a gleam of sunlight pierced the interlaced branches, we could 



G 



