CHAP. I. THE HOTEL ON THE HILL. 11 



hundred yards was the most one could see in any direction. 

 The path rose more steeply and continuously than upon passes 

 which are commonly traversed by mules in the Alps, and 

 degenerated as we ascended. It became a mere rut, hollowed 

 out on the face of the mountain, without provision for drainage, 

 and was left entirely to take care of itself. Earth that fell on 

 to it from the banks at the side was trodden into the general 

 filth. If pools accumulated, there they remained. Animals 

 dying oi route were left to rot, and were not removed. We 

 passed two disabled mules, stuck fast, abandoned to their fate. 



In two hours from Muuapamba we arrived at the village of 

 Balsabamba, and after a brief halt continued the steep ascent ; 

 soon after noon entering the zone where rain had been falling 

 during the last eight days, and then every one 2)i'essed forward 

 to seek the nearest shelter, at Tambo Loma. Whilst toiling up 

 the greasy zigzags, we were overtaken by a genial man, made 

 U23 of straps and buckles, who was riding extra-post to Quito, 

 and were guided by him across the quagmire that surrounded 

 the " Hotel on the Hill " to the principal ajoartment, a window- 

 less den about nine feet square and six feet high. There was 

 neither bed nor bedding, food nor firing at this place. ^ AVe 

 slept on our packing-cases. 



On the morning of the 17th we quitted Tambo Loma soon 

 after daybreak, piloted by the friendly courier. The muleteers 

 said that the road was nearly impassable, and during a rise of 

 3000 feet we found it a morass, a sea of mud, into which our 

 animals sank up to their knees or deeper. At length, when a 

 little less than 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, we gradu- 

 ally topped the mists, and obtained our first view in the Andes. 



1 An Ecuadoriau tambo is meant to give slielter to drovers and mule-drivers. 

 These classes commonly carry food with them, for economy, and are content to 

 sleep in pig-styes. The tambo meets their requirements, and seldom contains 

 accommodation or food for the few others who travel in Ecuador. At La Mona 

 we put up at a private house. Savaneta, Playas, Munapamba, and Balsabamba are 

 recognized stopping-places, and have tambos. 



