CROSSING THE GREAT ARENAL. 



CHAPTER 11. 



FROM GUARANDA TO THE FIRST CAMP O^ CHIMBORAZO. 



The town of Guaranda seemed very lifeless, although it had 

 about 2000 inhabitants, and I ventured to remark to an assistant 

 at the inn^ that it appeared dull, meaning that there was an 

 absence of trade and traffic. "It is, your Excellency,'' said the 

 dirty waiter, '' it is deplorably dull ; but to-night some choice 

 spirits will come in, a7id ivill hick up a delightful row.'' His 

 master remains in my recollection as a person of unusual candour. 

 There had been some difficulties over an account that he had 

 presented to the representative of a foreign power just before 

 our arrival, but he tendered no paltry excuses, and roundly 

 declared that Consuls, Ministers, and all that sort of thing must 



^ At this place there was an inn, where meals could be had. The beds were 

 objectionable, and the apartments were filthy. We passed the night in the open 

 j^allery on our packing-cases, and on Dec, 18 transferred ourselves to a house which 

 I engaged during our stay. 



