40 



TRAVELS A3I0NGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. ii. 



and stubborn fellow, carried his poles in such a manner that 

 they struck everything we passed, and by these and other 

 antics delayed us so considerably that we occupied seven hours 

 in getting to the Arenal. After crossing its summit, we left the 

 usual Quito track (which passes by Tortorillas) on our right, 



and under the leading of Jean- 

 Antoine steered a nearly north- 

 north-easterly course over the 

 upper and level portion of the 

 great plain. The sun w^as 

 approaching the horizon, and 

 threw immensely long shadows 

 upon the luminous sand. Carrel 

 guided us to the spot he had 

 selected, just at the mouth 

 of a vallon leading directly 

 towards the western summit.^ 

 We camped under a moonlit 

 sky by the side of a tiny 

 stream. The night was still 

 and cold, and at meal-time we 

 all — mountaineers, arrieros, and 

 Indians — sat together round a 

 blazing fire in the centre of the 

 encampment. The temperature 

 fell unexpectedly low. The minimum thermometer registered 

 21° Faht., and our little brook became a mass of solid ice. 

 The remains of the soup in the cooking utensils were frozen up, 

 cruelly hard, — but it was harder still to find in the morning 

 that the Indians and five of the mules had disappeared. 



~^,'* '■ 



ONE OF OUR ARRIEROS. 



met with trudging bare-footed along the roads, whenever one was hired he 

 found himself unable to walk without shoes, and that he had none. 



^ Left Guaranda 9.45 a.m. ; arrived at Ensillada 1.50 p.m. Halted 45 min. 

 Arrived at summit of Arenal 4.45 p.m.; and at Camp 1 (14,375 feet) at 5.50 p.m. 



