CHAP. IV. A VALIANT INN-KEEPER. 99 



as it is very slightly higher than the ordinary level of the river. 

 Scarcely a person was seen between Latacunga and Callo, for 

 the arrieros (who form almost the whole of the travelling popu- 

 lation of the country) prefer the old road on the left bank (eastern 

 side), as this is more elevated above the stream, and has con- 

 tiguous rising ground to which they can escape in case of inun- 

 dation. The two roads reunite just to the north of Callo, — 

 one of the bladder-like hills, common in Ecuador^ that are termed 

 ^panecillos.^ Here one commences the ascent of the Tiupullo 

 ridge (a sort of connecting link between Illiniza and Rumifiahui), 

 and rising in serpentine bends reaches the height of 11,559 feet;^ 

 and then, after passing a gently undulating tract which may 

 almost be compared with the Surrey highlands, descends by 

 somewhat abrupt zigzags into the basin of Machachi. Daylight 

 had gone when we entered upon the longest piece of straight 

 road in Ecuador, and it seemed interminable in the darkness. 

 AVhen we arrived at the village every one had fastened up for 

 the night and gone to bed. Pleadings for admittance were un- 

 heeded, so the effect of whip-handles and hob-nailed boots was 

 tried. Presently a husband and wife were heard in consultation. 

 *^My dear,"" said the masculine voice, '^it"s robbers; you had better 

 go to the door."" It was opened very reluctantly by a dishevelled 

 female, who found it was '^ only the gringos/' and at length the way 

 into the courtyard was unbarred, and admitted us to the tambo 

 kept by Antonio Racines, who became our host for several weeks. 



» This is the height of the summit of the road. The highest points upon this 

 ridge are three small peaks called Chaupi, which can be seen from long distances. 

 The view from the top of the Tiupullo ridge is one of the most extensive in Ecuador. 

 It embraces Tunguragua and Chimborazo on the south ; Illiniza, Cotopaxi, and 

 Rumihahui close at hand; and extends as far north as Cotocachi (distant seventy- 

 five miles). The city of Quito cannot, however, be seen from it. 



