102 



TRAVELS A310NGST THE GREAT ANDES. chap. v. 



covers it with oilskin, so that he has three hats one on top of 

 the other. To protect his eyes he ought to use a pair of Mue 

 goggles. Outside, he displays a poncho of superior quality, and 

 underneath it there are several of a coarser kind.^ What he 

 may Avear in the way of trousers cannot be said, for they are 

 covered up by buskins made from the skin of some wild animal, 

 and his feet are nearly invisible. If seen, one most likely observes 

 that his toes are 

 peeping through 

 his shoes. But 

 for all deficien- 

 cies thereabouts 

 he makes up in 

 the heel, by his 

 spurs, which are 



gigantic. The annexed figure represents what is considered a 

 moderate thing in spurs. ^ If he is properly fitted out, he carries 

 at the button-hole a carved drinking-cup, and at his side a tre- 

 mendous sheath-knife, or 

 machefa, an article that 

 is supposed to be neces- 

 sary for clearing away 

 branches. A person of 

 distinction will be strong 

 in his whip, which will 

 —''^~'^^- ' " \\'AN^ a wrought - iron 



handle, as it is found that that description does not break so 

 readily on the head of a mule as a wooden one, and he will carry 

 a guitar at his saddle-bow. Such a person, according to the phrase 



1 The ponchos in most general use were coarse woollen ones, measuring 

 52 X 52 inches. They cost seven or eight shillings apiece, and seemed usually 

 to be made locally. There was a poncho-maker nearly opposite to us at Mach- 

 achi. In Quito and to the north, cotton ponchos are frequently worn. They are 

 both lighter and cheaper. 



' The rowels sometimes measure five inches across. 



