170 TRAVELS A310NGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. ix. 



of the Equator ; followed by Sincholagua, Cotopaxi, Pasoclioa, 

 Ruminahui, the three hills of Chaupi on the Tiupullo ridge, Cor- 

 azon, Atacatzo, and Pichincha.^ 



The majority of the dwellings in the city have only a ground - 

 floor with one story above, and the streets mostly have a tame 

 appearance from the small height of the houses and want of 

 objects breaking the sky-line. Any one looking down upon these 

 five hundred acres of flat, featureless roofs will appreciate the 

 artistic value of chimney-pots. Quito has neither chimneys nor 

 fireplaces. Its temperature is supposed to be sufficiently high 

 to dispense with artificial warmth, and no provision is made for 

 heating apartments. As a matter of fact, it is usually high 

 enough for comfort,^ though fires would be agreeable when it falls 

 a degree or two lower than usual, for small variations are more 

 felt in this equable climate than in places where the range in 

 temperature is greater. 



It is customary here, when a visitor takes off his hat upon 

 entering a room, to beg him to put it on again ; and, in the absence 

 of permission, leave is generally requested. This, it is said, arises 

 from apprehension that cold will be taken by remaining uncovered. 

 The same persons, upon going out of doors, take off their hats to 

 flashes of lightning, no matter whether rain is falling ; and, when 

 the streets are busy and lightning is abundant, a grotesque effect 

 is produced by these salutations, which seem to be regarded a duty 

 by well - behaved persons, and are performed as punctiliously as 

 the homage which is paid to ]-eligious processions, when they are 

 in sight. 



Our hotel was nearly in the centre of the city. It was kept 

 by a truculent Corsican. who habitually stuck his arms akimbo 

 and frowned at his guests, as if ready to knock them down or eat 

 oft* their heads. One day, at the table d'hote^ he fought a pitched 



1 I (lid not see llliniza from the Pauecillo. and am unable to say whether it is 

 ever visible from it. 



2 For temperatures at Quito, see Appendix E. 



