208 TRAVELS AMONGST THE GREAT ANDES, chap. xi. 



washing for a Chinaman, which on the Pacific Coast is considered 

 the lowest depth of degradation that can befall a human being. 



Before proceeding to the north, we made an excursion to the 

 top of Pichincha. So far as extent is concerned, this is an im- 

 portant mountain. The part of it that is 10,000 or more feet 

 above the level of the sea is quite fifteen miles from North to 

 South, and its summit rises 6000 feet above Quito. Yet there 

 is little about it of a thoroughly mountainous character. It is 

 composed principally of undulating, grassy slopes, over which one 

 can ride higher than 14,000 feet. It is impossible to feel great 

 respect for an eminence that can be climbed on donkey -back, 

 and the truth is that the ascent of Pichincha is scarcely more 

 arduous than that of the Eggischorn. 



We left Quito on the 21st of March, at 7.55 a.m., with a team 

 of seven animals and three arrieros ; passed to the west of the 

 Panecillo (by the road shewn on the Plan) through the village of 

 Magdalena, and (leaving Chillogallo on the left ^) commenced to 

 mount the slopes of Pichincha ; going at first over a small col, 

 and descending on the village of Lloa, then ascending through 

 meadows, followed by a considerable stretch of wood. In an 

 unctuous rut between walls of earth, one of our mules floundered 

 and fell with its legs doubled underneath ; and our chief arriero 

 — a Chillogallo man — after a fcAV feeble efforts, would have aban- 

 doned it on the spot. Then we experienced the usual afternoon 

 shower-bath, and, getting into the clouds, became perplexed as to 

 our whereabouts. Camped at 4 p.m.^ in sleet and drizzle, unable 

 to see a hundred yards in any direction, and sent the animals and 

 natives back to Lloa. 



At night, when the atmosphere cleared, it was seen that we 

 had camped about midway between the two peaks of Pichincha, 



^ The village of Chillogallo is principally occupied by arrieros. It is seldom 

 possible to obtain horses or mules in Quito itself. If wanted, they have to be 

 procured from Chillogallo. 



2 The height of this camp was 14.007 feet above the sea. 



