CHAP. XII. EQUATORIAL SPORTS. ^ 223 



to cock-fighting, which in this region is considered the most 

 rational and delightful of all sports. He expressed incredulity 

 when told that in England it was only enjoyed by the lower 

 orders, though he would have readily believed that the Lord 

 Chancellor comes down every morning to the Law Courts with 

 a fighting-cock under each arm. ^' You surprise me/^ said the 

 Jefo-politico, " for all the best cocks come from England.^'' 



Three weeks later I passed two nights at this village, and 

 found that to each pillar in the courtyard of my host^s house 

 a fighting-cock was tied. His champions passed their spare 

 moments in attempts to carry on a desultory warfare ; and, 

 when night came, chased sleep away by screams of defiance. I 

 growled to the schoolmaster that they disturbed the sacredness 

 of midnight. " Oh,^^ said he, " they always crow at the eveji 

 hours " ; and it was the fact that they raised their voices at 

 twelve, two, and four, and let one, three, and five slip by un- 

 noticed ! 



The Jefo-politico, Sen or Antonio Jarrin de Espinosa, was 

 the owner of Cayambe mountain, of five thousand head of cattle, 

 and a man of large possessions ; and when he invited us to quit 

 comfortable quarters at Guachala, and to sleep at his Hacienda 

 Chuarpongo, I anticipated we were going to enjoy a rather good 

 time, in a country house, suitable for a person of his distinction. 

 Chuarpongo was on the outskirts of Cayambe, and looked down 

 upon the Equatorial village. The building was composed of little 

 more than one room, which was filled with raw potatoes — if they 

 had been cooked it would have been all right. Mashed potatoes 

 would make a nice bed, being of a plastic and accommodating 

 nature ; but these raw potatoes of Chuarpongo were uncom^^ro- 

 mising, and left a strong impression on both mind and body. 



I think it must be assumed, from the exceptional courtesy 

 he shewed, Seflor Espinosa was unaware that we had to repose 

 upon beds of raw potatoes. The guide he provided was himself. 

 He arrived at 4 a.m., on the 31st of March, at Chuarpongo, with 



