CHAP. XII. INDIAN HOSPITALITY. 227 



unused for a long time, overgrown and obliterated in many 

 places, or closed by interlaced branches. The dog crept under- 

 neath without much trouble, and found the way instinctively ; 

 whilst I was driven to make long detours, and several times 

 should have lost myself had not the sagacious animal stood on 

 the track and waited, or come and led me back. Much sooner 

 than I anticipated, sky became visible through openings in the 

 branches, and about 7.30 a.m. we suddenly emerged on to the 

 open ; and at the foot of a grassy hill saw a little Indian hut, 

 emitting blue smoke, curling upwards in front of the plain, with 

 a man and woman outside busy at their morning work. I smelt 

 breakfast, and pounced down on them like a hawk. '^^Have 

 you locro ?'' *''' Yes, Senor.^' '^^ Give me some locro^" (said very 

 peremptorily). '^ That I will, Sen or ^' (said heartily), and he 

 brought out a basonful at once, with another for the dog, and 

 we all sat outside in the sunshine eating potato-soup together. 

 They were an old, homely couple, unencumbered either by bash- 

 fulness or servility. He pressed us to take more, and came down 

 the river^'s side until the outlying houses of the village were 

 seen, and then with a polite salutation was about to take leave ; 

 but I detained him, and, pouring my loose money into his hand, 

 left him in stupefied adoration, uncertain whether he had seen 

 a vision or entertained a gringo. 



When I reappeared soon after 9 a.m. on the 1st of April at 

 the house of the Jefo-politico, a messenger was despatched to 

 advise the others ; and Senor Espinosa, Jean-Antoine, and Verity 

 arrived in the course of the afternoon, with congratulations upon 

 my safe return from this circular tour. The day was too far 

 advanced to make another start for the camp. Having time 

 on our hands, we wandered about the village, and formed the 

 acquaintance of priest and schoolmaster ; and discovered that 

 one could buy two-pennyworth of bread at a time, and no more. 

 If you want a larger quantity, you may buy another medioworth, 

 and so on, but on no account will a shilling's worth be sold at 



