1871.] W. T. Blanford— Journey through SiMim. 387 



awaiting us at Chuuianako. On a lovely morning, we climbed up 

 beside the yak herdsmen's tents to a rather high ridge, whence 

 there was a superb view of the Chola peak or Dobendikhan, in 

 one direction, and of Kinchinjanga in another. This was the 

 last really fine day we had for a long time. On the ridge we shot 

 two large rose finches, Pyrrospiza punicea and Procarduelis Nipalen- 

 sis. A long descent, the road down which had been cleared for 

 us, led to the Chola valley amongst firs and rhododendrons, and 

 after crossing the stream we found two of the Raja's officers in 

 flowered blue silk dresses, awaiting us with a couple of mules, 

 on which we rode about two miles up the valley to Chumanako. 

 This is the spot where Campbell and Hooker were seized by the 

 Raja's officials in 1849. We found a tent pitched for us and the 

 Raja's half brother awaiting us ; he had brought us a quantity of 

 very good biscuits, far superior to Hindu " mitai," and dried fruits. 

 The Raja's tents were about a mile farther up the valley, and his 

 brother asked if we would go thither in the afternoon, or would 

 prefer deferring our reception till the next morning. We agreed 

 to pay our visit in the afternoon, and about an Jiour afterwards 

 two mules were sent for us, on which we rode up to the camp. 



A durbar tent was pitched some distance below the Raja's en- 

 campment, and, on entering it, we were again met by the Raja's 

 brother and conducted to the Raja, who sat behind a kind of altar, 

 on which joss sticks were burning, at the extreme end of the tent. 

 Chairs were placed for us on the left ; every body else, including 

 the brother, remained standing. Both the Raja and his brother 

 were dressed in long robes of flowered yellow silk. The Raja* 

 stared at us and paid no attention to our salutation, indeed 

 during the whole interview he remained abstracted, gazing steadi- 

 ly in front, and only once or twice looked up when any re- 

 mark of ours was repeated to him by his brother ; and even then 

 he did not utter a word. I do not believe that any discourtesy 

 was intended ; I have no doubt that the whole of his behaviour 

 was in complete accordance with Tibetan ideas of sanctity. The 

 highest human attainment, according to the Buddhist creed, is 



* The present Baja is, I believe, the son of the man who imprisoned Hooker 

 and Campbell; he succeeded in 1863-64.. 



