392 W. T. Blanford — Journeij through Sikkim. [No. 4, 



the different places where they are dispersed, and a solemn dance 

 takes place on the grass plot in front of the monastery. The 

 masks are chiefly those of devils, the most gorgeous of all, with 

 much gilding, being no bad imitation of the Satan of mediaeval Chris- 

 tianity. The great festival, we were told, takes place in Decem- 

 ber, and is doubtless no other than our own Christmas, or, to speak 

 more correctly, Yule.* 



But few of the Lamas were at the monastery at this time of the 

 year, and the chief Lama himself was absent. Indeed during the 

 greater part of the year many of the monks reside in their own 

 villages. 



In the afternoon we visited the Raja's palace, which has been 

 described by Hooker. It is surrounded by a wall, and the princi- 

 pal room within is a chapel. 



September 1st. After much opposition we were obliged to allow 

 our men to halt for a day, Kechu Lama promising to take us to 

 Lachting in 5 days, (which, I may add, he failed to do). I spent the 

 day, a fine one, in labelling birds, writing up my diary and writing 

 letters, for by good fortune we had found our postman here with 

 letters from Darjiling for us. Several presents of vegetables, rice, 

 fowls and the never-failing marwa were brought to us. Amongst 

 the people who came to see us was Meepo, Hooker's old guide, now 

 no longer a young man. 



2nd to 5th. I shall describe very briefly our march to Chdngtam, 

 which occupied 4 days. It was a very unpleasant one, through much 

 rain and swarms of leeches. We took the wrong road at starting, 

 owing to some mistake of the coolies, and instead of going directly 

 over the hill behind Tamliing to Selim and Eingam, we took the 

 longer route via Tingchem. Our first halt was at that place, in a 

 village which had been deserted on account of dysentery, which 

 all the people in Sikkim dread greatly and look upon as conta- 

 gious. Here we had not been expected, but as soon as we came 

 upon the direct road at Eingam we found a Dewan awaiting us in an 

 excellent bamboo house, which had been built for our accommodation, 



* Compare Journ. As. Soc. Bengal, Part I, 1865, p. 71, for an account by 

 Major Godwin-Austen of the use of similar masks in a mystery play in Ladak. 

 These festivals took place in spring and autumn. 



