408 W. T. Blanford— Journey through Sikkim. [No. 4, 



lie had expected to meet with the Tibetan encampment, but that 

 was high upon Donkia, so after firing 3 or 4 shots, of which no one 

 took any notice, he was obliged to climb back by Donkia Pass and 

 to astonish the Tibetans by appearing from the north. 



September 21 st. A bitterly cold morning, hard frost and a little 

 snow. The coolies had esconced themselves amongst the stones in 

 an extraordinary manner, and contrived some kind of shelter, but 

 they chiefly kept warm, I fancy, by huddling together. We called 

 all the men together and sounded them as to whether they, or any 

 part of them, would follow us if we forced our way across the pass. 

 The Tibetans had no arms, and had evidently no intention to use 

 violence, and we could either give them the slip, or push past 

 them. But all, Nipalese and Biitias, alike refused to follow, 

 alleging that the Tibetans would be revenged upon them at some 

 future time. There was no help but to return, and ascend the 

 Lachen to Kongra Lama.* 



Meantime the Suba of Kambajong and his men arrived from the 

 frontier, very indignant at what they considered the trick played 

 upon them the day before, for they very naturally concluded that 

 the story I had told them of Elwes being lame was false, and that 

 I had occupied their attention whilst he slipped over the frontier. 

 They were especially angry with Kechu Lama, who had accompanied 

 me. I may add that I believe the indignation was in part assumed, 

 as they all declared that their heads would be cut off, which I took 

 and still take the liberty of disbelieving ; their main object being 

 throughout to induce us, by all means in their power, not to attempt 

 to cross the frontier. After a little conversation we persuaded the 

 Suba that Elwes had only gone from one pass to the other, and 

 pacified him, the more so that, seeing it was hopeless, we promised 



* I should say here, lest it be thought that, in attempting to cross the 

 frontier by pushing past the guard, or giving them the slip, we risked 

 either bloodshed, or the severe punishment, by their own government, of men 

 who had treated us with civility, that I firmly believe both fears were utterly 

 groundless. The Tibetans guard their frontier from the entrance of Eniopeaus 

 because it is the traditional custom, and because the Chinese government 

 orders it. Dozens of sportsmen have crossed at one time or another into 

 western Tibet, but no ill results have ever been heard of. Had we crossed, 

 1 believe that the Suba and his guard, after bewailing their imaginary fate 

 for a reasonable length of time, say an hour or two, would have marched on with 

 us \u the most friendly manner to Kongra Lama. 



