142 NEBRASKA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



the stock, in which case the graft turns black at this point and a fun- 

 gus growth usually sets in and ruins the graft. The root should be 

 cut about six inches long, as in the pear, so as to include the part 

 emitting fibrous roots. Make the wax by heating slowly white resin 

 with about ten per cent beeswax ; when melted, let it partially cool, 

 then add alcohol until about the consistency of thick molasses. Apply 

 with the finger, being careful not to get it too hot. Make only two 

 or three cions at a time, then place and wax them, covering cut sur- 

 faces and end of cion, and roll at once in dry sand, which will pre- 

 vent the grafts from sticking together. Pack in boxes with sand or 

 moss, not above the point of union, and set in a cool, dry cellar or cave. 

 Be careful to keep the cions dry until used, and then not allow them 

 to absorb moisture except from the stock after united. The best vari- 

 ety of Mazzard stocks are known as Cerasus Avinum, and are imported 

 from eastern France. This applies to the root-grafting of the cherry, 

 apricot, plum, and peach. 



Seedlings of our native plums make the best stocks for grafting 

 European or native varieties. For the cultivated varieties of the 

 Chickasaw race peach seedlings make the best stocks. If used with 

 2, long cion they are hardy, and give good root for transplanting. 



Top-grafting of the stone fruits should be done early in March 

 while the stock is dormant, and the cions should show no signs of 

 o-ranulation at the base, or starting of buds. Use the same graft and 

 wax the same as in root-grafting. Wrap the waxed portion with a 

 white rag to prevent the sun from melting the wax. In top-grafting 

 we set the dish containing the wax on top of a sheet iron can, made 

 with a door in the side to admit a lamp, which keeps the wax warm 

 enough for use. 



A FEW REMARKS. 



Grand Island, Neb. 

 G. J. Carpenter, Fairbury, Neb : Dear Sir — I have received 

 your Nebraska Horticulturist and have with interest read your leader 

 on "Forestry." With a few exceptions, I consider the advice you 

 give good and sound. My experience (of thirty years) tells me that 

 Ailanthus should be discarded on account of tenderness and its ob- 

 jectionable suckering proclivities. I also differ with you as to the 



