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higher than the Cotinga, to which it runs, more or less parallel, in a 

 direction a little east of south. Walking up the east bank, over loose 

 white sand and smooth water-worn rocks, we reached the Karona Falls, 

 and there slung our hammocks to await Quelch. 



The Karona Falls are, I think, without exception, the most beautiful 

 sight I have ever seen, perfect in every respect. Viewed from our 

 camp, which was on the edge of a large area of level rock, we saw on 

 our left the main body of the river, which widens to some 200 yards, 

 falling over a mass of rock to a depth of 85 feet. At the very edge, 

 withstanding the feaiful current, is a tiny rocky island with low bush 

 and a few palms — round this the water, seething into foam, rushes with 

 tremendous speed, roaring and breaking into spray as it rolls over 

 the precipice ; straight in front of us the smaller body of water forces 

 itself through a narrow gorge, of which the perpendicular walls are 

 twenty feet in height above the water. In the middle of this gorge 

 and confined within these walls the watei- makes its drop, the foaming 

 mass at the foot boiling and spurting like a huge cauldron". Lower 

 down these waters all unite, but are immediateh' separated by a large 

 island, and on both sides of this the water continues, still on an incline, 

 for half a mile or more, and then, uniting again, flows on to join the 

 Takutu ; directly behind the falls are hills luxuriantly covered with 

 palms and forest-growth, and between them the waters of the Ireng 

 flosv quietly, forming a remarkable contrast to the scene below. The 

 green hills as background, the black rocks and foaming water, with a 

 clear blue sky above and the brilliant sunshine over all, made a view- 

 one could watch for hours, and the three days I spent heie, fishing and 

 strolling about waiting for Quelch, I look back on as the most enjoyable 

 part of the trip. 



The men I had with me not understanding the fishing in this water, 

 I had taken the precaution of bringing two men from Sakonmay-bung- 

 bung who were accustomed to the place. These men crossed over to a 

 small rock at the foot of the fall and fished in the roughest part of the 

 current with a thick cotton cord, at the end of which was a huge hook 

 baited with fish. When the bait was taken the line was seized in both 

 hands and a pull given sufficient to take the head ofi" any ordinary fish ; 

 no play was allowed, but the fish were hauled in hand over hand and 

 knocked on the head. The first one brought in was scaleless and flat- 

 headed, of a blackish colour, and was called by the Indians " Cuma 

 quema.'" I had no means of weighing it, but it measured 59 inches in 

 length and 44 inches i-ound the body. The people were very amused 

 at the idea of measuring a fish, and looked upon the steel tape-measure, 

 wliich rolled up with a spring, as a most mysterious object; they were 

 also very puzzled by my camera, which I produced heae for the first 

 time. After a good deal of persuasion, I managed to induce one man 

 to put his head imder the velvet cloth and look on the focussing-glass. 

 lie was so pleased at seeing me walking aliout upside down when I moved 

 to the front of the camera, that he called all the others in turn to have 

 a look, and waved me ])ack each time I moved out of the picture ; after 

 thi.s there was always some one anxious to have a peep when I was- 

 taking a pliotograpli. 



