XI I ITiyERARV. 



of back currents under the left bank, but in the afternoon the water 

 was very heavy against us and we made little progress, although we 

 took a very circuitous route among the small islands, of Avhich there 

 were a large number. 



At Akaramukra the river opens out to about five miles in width, 

 but numerous large rounded masses of granite and islands prevent 

 any view of the full extent of the water. The birds which I have 

 mentioned as being the commonest along the river disappeared almost 

 entirely at this wide part of the river, their place being taken by 

 Scissor-bills, Sandpipers, and Terns, which are usually found either on 

 the mud-ilats of the coast or on the sand-banks in the livers running 

 through the savanna countrj'. 



After the Rappu or Bamboo rapids the river makes a considerable 

 bend, running for a short distance E.N.E., giving us a good view of 

 the continuation of the Makari range and Makarapan ahead of us. 

 Since passing the Makari range on the E , the banks on both sides 

 of the river had been very low and the bush much poorer, consisting 

 of small trees and cocorite and sowarri palms, and at times we had 

 great difficulty in finding any ground for camping, the water being 

 dammed back to a great extent by the falls; on our return joui-ney, 

 when the heavy water had all drained ofl', the banks showed 20 or 

 30 feet above the river. In two days more we reached the Kupununi 

 mouth, and camped there for three days for a rest before sending the 

 despatch boat liack to the coast with letters, and to bi'ing up some of 

 our supplies from Waraputa. 



During our stay I went with Quelch about two miles higher up the 

 Essequibo to look for an old Indian village called Apoteri, and after 

 some little trouble we found the site, only distinguishable by the 

 second forest-growth ; but all traces of the houses had disappeared, and 

 the place was so overgrown with prickly vines that we were glad to 

 return to the boat. On the way back we shot an Osprey, the only 

 specimen obtained on the ti'ip, 



A Carib was living about two miles back from our camp, and from 

 him we bought some provisions ; he also lent our huntsmen a dog, and 

 they managed to kill a large Deer and two wild hog, for which we 

 were A^ery thankful, fresh meat for the men being very difficult to 

 obtain. "We were told that he had killed one of his own tribe and 

 was staying here for safety. 



The mosquitos and sand-flies, both by night and day, were almost 

 maddening, sleep being quite out of the question. We had also 

 during the last few days been troubled by a small black fly called 

 Cabouroo. Avhich leaves a minute blood-blister wherever it attacks. 

 Three different species of stingless bees were also very troublesome, 

 buzzing about the eyes and nose, refusing to go when brushed on one 

 side. With three sleepless days and nights we had, I think, our worst 

 experiences at this camp. 



Having repacked everything into the ' Victoria ' and started the 

 little boat back to Bartica, we pushed on up the Rupununi and called 

 in at the two villages, Simeri and jMakapa, near the mouth, the latter 

 of which only had one house standing out of Avhat was once a large 

 settlement. A single house a mile farther on, at a place called Sekwe, 



