ITINERARY. xi 



the Takwari rocks — tliree large greenstone columns springing from 

 a single base — about halfway up the side. We made camp that after- 

 noon at a small village, called Morsa after a creek on the opposite 

 or left bank, and here we stayed for two days to rest the men after 

 the hard work they had gone through. The thin walled houses were 

 interesting to us, being built in the savanna style, and differed from 

 those seen nearer the coast in having Avails ; in the bush there is no 

 need for them as the breeze never penetrates the thick growth. These 

 houses belonged to a family of Wapisianas who came from the 

 savannas beyond the Kanuku Mountains. 



In two days we arrived at Arinda on the left bank. In the time of 

 the Dutch this had been an outpost kept up for the protection of the 

 Indians, and afterwards became an Indian settlement — only finally 

 abandoned a few days before our aiiival. 



The Kurupukarri Kuariwaka and Gold Falls, which we passed during 

 the next three days, were hardly noticeable, except as a swift-running 

 body of water. On one of the islands in the Gold Fall, Avhere we all 

 walked round to lighten the boat, I nearly stepped on a Labarria, 

 a vsnake almost as deadly as a Bushmoster ; but it never moved, and 

 allowed me time to go back and bring my gun. 



Just above the Gold Falls the men heard a Tapir whistling in the 

 bush and, taking all the guns, started in puisuit ; in about a quai'ter 

 of an hour it took to the Avater twenty yards aboA'e the boat, but all 

 the guns being ashore it crossed over to the otlier side in safety. 

 Game was not plentiful along the banks, but the men, a few of Avhom 

 used to hunt each morning AA'hile breakfast AA^as being prepared, ahvays 

 managed to find something, either hog, or Agouti, or a game-bird. We 

 Avere not able to do much in the Avay of collecting from the boat, birds 

 not being in any number or A'ariety. INFacaAvs fleAA" over at a great 

 lieight, screaming as they passed, and could be heard long after they 

 liad disappeared ; large gi^ey Kingfishers {Megaceryle torqnata) and the 

 prett}' little Red-headed Fall-bird (Prt?-ortnrt (/w/ori's) used to fly along in 

 front of the boat, and a feAv Hawks could be seen sitting on the top- 

 most branches well out of range. Large flocks of A'arious PniTakeets 

 jiassed over at a great pace leA'el Avith the ti'ee-tops, and Toucans, 

 generally three or four at a time, flew clumsily OA'er, genei;dly low 

 down by the time they reach the opposite liank — sometimes they fell 

 into the AA'ater where the river is Avide, their strength having failed 

 them. 



On one tree, A\duch was in floAver, Ave shot seA'eral small Creepers in 

 a feAV minutes ; they apparently did not mind the discharge of the 

 gun, but continued buzzing round the flowers until Ave had secuz-cd as 

 inaiiy as we Avanted. 



The next important land-mark Avas on our left, the Makari INFoun- 

 tains, Avhere the Demerara Iliver rises; this range is continued across 

 the Esserpiibo, and running in a south-AA'esterly diiection is terminated 

 by Miikarapan — a large mountain 5000 feet in height on the north 

 bank of the Rupununi. A little way on is the village of 8imang, on a 

 small island ; here we stopped to enquire for provisions, but the people 

 seemed very badly ofl'and could spare none. 

 , The Pisliam J'isham rapids AVt-re [•a.'^sed very (piickly by the aid 



