ITINERARY. l.XXVll 



time, hut got our tliiiigs iuto the boats as (|uiuk]y as possible, and 

 liastened to drop down tlie creek. 



There was just the chance we might be able to get a bag or two of 

 rice at the gold-mining oa.mp farther up the river — for it is always the 

 cereals that make the difference. On the other hand, we should Jiave 

 lost a day if the attempt failed : though probably Ave might be able to 

 get sufficient to make up a day's supply even considering that the camp 

 was so far away from supplies and was under Government regulations 

 as to the food of the labourei'S. Anyhow we decided to make the 

 attempt ; and as I knew the manager I started off with a veiy full 

 crew in the boat, which had been discharged for the purpose. As it 

 turned out, they also were running short, and were <l:uly expecting the 

 proprietor himself iu the relief boats Avith three months' supplies and a 

 fresh batch of labourers. We shoulil meet him on the open river, in a 

 day or two most likely, and could then procure Avliat we needed. To 

 make it worse at the camp, their ground-provisions had failed, owing to 

 the very exceptional diy weathei- of the last three months — a state of 

 things that seemed to be general along the river, where the Indians 

 were supplementing their cassava with grated mora seeds mixed in 

 before baking, and making a by no means pleasant addition. 



We therefore dropped down the river feeling secure that Ave Avould 

 roeet the boats before passing oA^er the unobstructed course. Even Avith 

 little current in the low Avater, however, Ave had ali'eady rounded 

 Teboco and passed through the rapids, in Avhich there is a clear view 

 across, liefore Ave came upon them just near camping time — with a 

 much greater relief than can Avell be expressed, for in the long series 

 of falls below there Avas every possibility that Ave might pass them in a 

 different channel Avithout being aAvare of it. It Avas an extra pleasure 

 to see Mr. Barnard, the proprietor, himself Avith them ; and he ex])lained 

 that they liad been delayed several days beyond their noi'uial tiine 

 owing to the very low state of the river. We Avere by no means loth 

 to dine with him tliat night, the more so that he had fresh meat and 

 fish, which his huntsmen had obtained Avhile the Ijoats were struggling 

 with the falls ; and our men enjoyed the first square meal they had 

 had since getting to the Kurnbung camp. 



W'ith the explanation of our jilight we felt our ti'oubles and anxiety 

 over, for l^arnard most kindly olVei-ed all the assistance required ; but 

 as we were already so far down, McConnell only acceptetl a ])ag of rice, 

 knowing the difficulties of the food-supplies in these far distant parls. 

 As it happened, Ave Avere considerably delayed ])y the low water, and it 

 must have Ijeen a common thought to all of us, though iniexpressed, 

 that it was a pifcy a second bag had not been taken, for it was with 

 very tightened belts and sharp desire that Ave at last reachetl the land 

 of plenty at IJaitika. What it would have been like if wo hail missed 

 lianiard among the falls, none of us cared to contenqdate — sufficient 

 for the day was the evil thereof. 



Jfc only remains to add in a few lines that for any havoljci- to 

 iiorainia to-duy, th(j pr<)I)lem is a very tliU'erent one, presenting bul few 

 of the e-'iriier difficulties. My tiio I'otaro route, there is a steamer 

 available to a point uu the lJp[)er I )omerara river from which a short 

 railway runs to a station on the Essequilio river, aliove the (irst sot of 



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